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Routes in Winter Wall

Basalt Therapy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Blind Faith S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clean Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gopher Broke S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grape Ape S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hellboy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Highly Caffenated T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Highway to Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Naked Lunch S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Old Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Sling Straightened T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Original Face Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pale Face S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Post Moderate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Protein Supplement S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roid Boys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
SOL Man (aka Not In the End) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sunbaked S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vitaman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Xibalba S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Tom Wezwick, Chris Kessler, and Karl Kiser
Page Views: 1,137 total, 9/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Oct 23, 2007
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This crack system between Post Moderate and Grape Ape is one of the older Diablo routes.

Climb up the low-angle easy corner then undercling/lieback left. Continue up a more low-angle shallow corner crack system with just seams (no cracks, no pro) until the next blocky roofs. Turning these blocky overhangs is the fun & well-protected crux of the route. Rap from the 2-bolt anchor, or continue up the upper half of Post Moderate.

Since the lower half of the fully-bolted Post Moderate can be climbed to reach the anchor, most traffic on Highly Caffenated is from people toproping it these days.

Location

Climb 5 on the beta photo.
The original online guide shows this climb.
Crack system between Post Moderate and Grape Ape. Starts just left of the post.

Protection

Nuts & cams to 3", including RPs.
2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Karl Kiser
  5.10- PG13
Karl Kiser  
  5.10- PG13
FA by Tom Wezwick, Chris Kessler and Karl Kiser. Apr 1, 2008
Rick Bradshaw
Los Alamos, NM
Rick Bradshaw   Los Alamos, NM
This route was established by some combination of Mark Thomas, Tom Wezwick, Karl Kiser, and Chris Kessler, all of whom worked together on several routes at Diablo and in particular on the Winter Wall. Mar 8, 2008