Type: Trad, TR, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 203 total · 1/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Oct 23, 2007
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Climb up the set-back to the ledge, or climb a crack on the right and hand-traverse left to the ledge (more contrived, but more fun moves). Step up on a decent foothold out on the face, and work your way through a serious of strenuous small holds up the seam to the top. Clever footwork pays dividends here.

Location

The main portion of White Wall hosts a couple of 12's, and "Purple Stripe." On the left side of this sweep of rock is a square cut set-back with a ledge/alcove on its right.

Protection

Gear to 2" for the lower part. Gear from 1/8 - 1/2" at the crux. It's actually possible to get 3-4 pieces in, if you have enough small gear and the patience to hang out and place it.

Although there is gear, it requires precision to place it well, so I'd still call this route PG13.

Photos

Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Wow! Got on the sharp end on this this weekend past but had to swerve off at the crux. Felt like 10+ on the second try. Sheesch! Tricky and devious to say the least.. there is good gear but to let go and place calls for a serious pump for the grade. Beautiful! Apr 19, 2009
I also bailed off the crux to the left. I went up with only a set of nuts but if I had a small cam it would have been well protectable, the nuts went in but were crap. Jul 27, 2009
Josh Knapp
East Troy, Wisconsin
  5.10+ PG13
Josh Knapp   East Troy, Wisconsin
  5.10+ PG13
Ha! My story is the same! Went for the onsight, got a decent #1C3 just before the crux, but it wasn't enough to climb above not knowing what lies ahead......so I bailed left also. After a tough OS on TR I was glad I didn't go for it! 10+ sounds about right. Nov 21, 2011
Dunbar Carpenter
Albuquerque, NM
  5.9+
Dunbar Carpenter   Albuquerque, NM
  5.9+
The crux of this route, the very last move, is definitely height-dependent. I was able to statically grab the top edge from a precarious but okay position below, but others would have to make a much trickier move to reach. I'll give it 5.9+ - it was probably more of a 9 for me, but definitely harder for someone shorter.

I lead this after a TR. The whole route actually has good protection, including the top, it's just tricky to get stuff in the last 10 ft because its a small crack and the stance you get is balancy and a bit strenuous.

Really fun route, including the bottom. Oct 10, 2012
Jake Lescher
  5.10+ PG13
Jake Lescher  
  5.10+ PG13
The right hand crimp at the top ripped off while we were attempting a lead up A Midwestern Climb. This route is likely harder now. Just a fair warning if you get up to the crux and it feels harder than 5.10 Dec 3, 2017