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Routes in Waterfall Dome

Malex of Four Thoughts T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stain, The T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Waterfall Cracks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 260 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Mike Strassman, Scott Ayers, 1982
Page Views: 131 total · 1/month
Shared By: Joseph Stover on Oct 21, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Right and below the large double roof system, there is a smaller roof system. Belay under a large right facing and curving flake/fin that takes large pro. Work up this flake and onto the face under a small(2ft high x 6ft wide) roof. go above this and climb easy jugs to a large right facing diagonal roof. Belay here. Second pitch starts right of the diagonal roof and works up and right eventually turning a corner(below a large steep square face cut) and working up a right facing dihedral with a large finger crack. Belay at the tree with a large fist crack under it. Then either solo or belay a chickenhead 3rd pitch to the top about 5.3 for 30 ft. Walk of the 4th class chickheaded west/southwest slab.

  • really 2 pitches + hike up and off.

Protection

Standard rack up to #4 camalot, with doubles in 1-2 inch pieces.

Historical Note

It has been suggested by Dave DeChamps(sp?) that this route was done earlier by Dave Baker and others. Although no name or year info has been given.

Photos

Flex
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Flex   Flagstaff, AZ
 
According to DDC this was an old Dave Baker et al. route done prior to Strassman & Ayers ascent. Apparently this error was reported in the Kerry guide. Oct 24, 2007
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
 
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
 
I have heard that too. But I will just leave the FA and name as is until another route name and more confirmation on an earlier ascent is given. Either way, it is a route worth doing if you want a shorter moderate multipitch trad route. Oct 24, 2007

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