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Routes in Middle Marker Area

Big Dripper T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Borealis Strut S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Broken Promises T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Crystal Shard S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Deja' Vu Prophecy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Don't Stahl S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Equinox S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Help s On the Way S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Is That Uranus S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Jupiter Fly By S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Little Dripper T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Make Believe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Micro-Climb S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mintaka T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Moonstone S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Orions Belt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Raisins in the Sun T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Roadside Plum T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Rum and Coke S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
SLAMAT S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Saturn Boogie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skywalker S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Solo System S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spacedust S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Star Dancer S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Weird Water T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 165 ft
FA: Mike Engle, Vern Phinney
Page Views: 967 total, 8/month
Shared By: Andy Busse on Oct 21, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Check NPS for Closures Details

Description

Climb past the schist band and attain the center crack. The crack takes good gear and protects well. Follow the crack until it ends then move up and left to a double set of bolts, clip and move up and rt to the 2 second bolt (not seen from previous bolt, do not go left, which is the weakness). continue up attaining the anchors, note that these are the only bolts on the route besides the anchors, hence PG-13 rating.

Location

Approach:
This route is found on the Middle Marker formation. From the Emancipation pullout, Middle Marker is the major formation seen in front of you, as you are traveling away from Mt Rushmore.
Deja Vu Prophecy, Roadside Plum, & Raisins in the Sun are all located on this southernly aspect. Gain the base of the formation.
Deja Vu Prophecy will be a bolted route on the left side, Roadside Plum is the center crack above the schist band, and Raisins in the Sun is the crack on the right in the water groove.

Protection

#.4-#2 Camalots, 1 set of Stoppers, 2 ropes for rappel

Photos

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