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Routes in (3) Video Bluff

Ace T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bikini S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Damaged Circuit TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
EZ Corner T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Edge of Might S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Eve of Destruction T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flakey Old Man S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Live Wire S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Panes of Reality TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Robotics TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Stained Glass T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Stranger Than Friction S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, TR, 30 ft, Grade V
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,142 total · 38/month
Shared By: Caleb Phillips on Oct 20, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

35 Opinions

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This is a classic problem. It isn't hard, but can be really enjoyable, especially for newbies or first-time sport leaders. The most interesting move is near the top, where you must switch hands to the flakey stuff on the left.


Just about dead-center in the wall. Right of a 5.10 on a nose and Left of a difficult looking 5.11.


Bolts. 2-bolt Anchor at the top. Use a tree and a long sling to safely get to the top-rope bolts. Or, lead it, which is more fun.


Teh Phuzzy  
3 bolts on route, but I usually forget the second one Jul 1, 2010
The anchor atop Flakey Old Man was upgraded in the summer of 2009 with a third chain and some beefy hardware. For safety sake, please do not reach out for this anchor from the top without being roped up.

Chad Feb 27, 2011
Great for a first-timer's lead climb!! May 22, 2014
Santa Rosa, CA
Louie   Santa Rosa, CA
I second that advice. Don't reach over to the chains without pro. It is a sketchy situation. Aug 31, 2016
Jeremy T.
Portland, OR
Jeremy T.   Portland, OR
Did this one dirty, so chossy...Next time i'll bring a push broom to clean the route, plus a dump truck to clean the surrounding area. Its really nice to have a local crag, but really sad to see it so full of trash... Apr 26, 2018

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