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The Chosen One

5.11a, Sport, 165 ft (50 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 34 votes
FA: Mike Strassman
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Cochise Stronghold > W Stronghold > Isle of You > Trad Rock

Description

Earns the 5.11a rating just after the first bolt with delicate crimps and micro feet. Eases shortly thereafter with three or so 5.10 cruxes interspersed among the 165ft of climbing. Note there are significant (20ft) runouts between a few bolts on easier terrain. While arguably a one move wonder, the climbing above is so enjoyable and endless that it can be overlooked.

Location

Sixth climb from the right; between 'Stone Woman' and 'Isle of You'. Rightmost climb on the gravel terrace.

Protection

17 bolts to 2-bolt anchor, which is shared with 'Isle of You'. Since the route is 165ft one must:

  • Walk off
  • Double rope rappel
  • Climb with an 80m rope

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Top-rope, self-belay. Yarded at crux otherwise clean.
[Hide Photo] Top-rope, self-belay. Yarded at crux otherwise clean.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matthew N. Hirt
college park
[Hide Comment] This climb was good broke a large undercling off just before the anchors, but after falling and getting another look at it you don't need it. climbed 1/10/11 Mar 8, 2011
John Hayes
Bend, OR
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] The thin moves from the ground past the first bolt are the crux. After that there are two or three cruxes that seemed like maybe 5.10 to me. The climbing is fun even if there are a lot of tendon tearing moves near the bottom. Feb 19, 2012
Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
 
[Hide Comment] You can get down with a 60 by rapping to the Jizzneyland anchors. Mar 20, 2017
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
 
[Hide Comment] An 80m rope got us to the ground. 130 ft. about. Not a one move wonder, plenty of fun above the crux. 17+2 draws. Run-outs are about 25 and 30 ft. on 5.8 stuff? Be careful. Jan 28, 2018
wwwcochiseclimbing com
[Hide Comment] Only burly climbers carry a 80m to the Cochise Stronghold! Feb 4, 2018
Daniel Kat
Denver, CO
  5.11a R
[Hide Comment] Wasn't a fan of the (2) 20ft(+?) runouts, on maybe 5.8 or harder terrain, but the climbing in insecure (slipy crimps, small foot edges, ect...) and a fall in those areas wouldn't be a good fall.

The harder upper climbing was well protected, but not my favorite style by far - like almost vertical slab climbing, standing up on small edges and holding on malformed slopey-cripms (or nothing), ended up genuinely not enjoying the climbing at all, which is weird because I usually love just about any climbing. Also was a bit frustrated that there looked to be more featured and fun climbing to the left and right of this line, but they seemed to put the bolts of the least-fun looking line in this area. But alas, I'm sure some people out there love this style, just not for me. Dec 18, 2019