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Science Friction

5.9- PG13, Sport, 160 ft (48 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 32 votes
FA: Mike Baker, solo. (5-1-98)
Utah > Southeast Utah > Sunshine Wall > Sunshine Wall Routes
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

A nice route, especially for aspiring slab leaders. (Yes, there are such people...)

Technical crux is well protected (between bolts 3-5). Stay cool mid-route at the odd and tricky right-angling seam (sandy in spots). A couple widely-spaced drilled pitons protect this section. Follow seam to top.

Occasional rests....to reflect and question yourself, of course.

Location

Quarter mile right of the the Naked Lady Boulder (cowboy art). The tallest section of Sunshine Wall. Route (bolted) begins low center of face, right of large boulder, and stays left of obvious crescent/sickle feature mid-wall.

Protection

12-13 draws. Bolts, drilled pitons.
Anchors.
Double-rope rappel.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Stepping high into right-angling seam (hidden from view).
[Hide Photo] Stepping high into right-angling seam (hidden from view).
Terry nearing the last drilled piton of the upper seam.<br>
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(Note the "best smile money can buy.")
[Hide Photo] Terry nearing the last drilled piton of the upper seam. (Note the "best smile money can buy.")
Outlined is the bolted route. after you go over the lip, there are two or three bolts till the anchor, a little run out, but since the grade is low it isn't so bad.
[Hide Photo] Outlined is the bolted route. after you go over the lip, there are two or three bolts till the anchor, a little run out, but since the grade is low it isn't so bad.
Science Friction (5.9+). Sunshine Wall, Arches National Park, UT.
[Hide Photo] Science Friction (5.9+). Sunshine Wall, Arches National Park, UT.
Science Friction
[Hide Photo] Science Friction
Getting started.
[Hide Photo] Getting started.
Here is the run out section to the anchors.
[Hide Photo] Here is the run out section to the anchors.
Erica reaching the bolts on the Science Friction Melanoma is to the left.  Super fun climb because of the length (You need two ropes to safley rap). A little run out at the end but really not that bad due to the grade.
[Hide Photo] Erica reaching the bolts on the Science Friction Melanoma is to the left. Super fun climb because of the length (You need two ropes to safley rap). A little run out at the end but really not that…
Here are the anchors with bullet holes in the wall.<br>
<br>
This is the anchors for Science Friction to the right of Melanoma Shuffle. Make sure you have two ropes.
[Hide Photo] Here are the anchors with bullet holes in the wall. This is the anchors for Science Friction to the right of Melanoma Shuffle. Make sure you have two ropes.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ladd Raine
Plymouth, NH
[Hide Comment] Yikes! Dec 7, 2007
John Ross
Wasatch Front, UT
[Hide Comment] Under "Protection" add Kevlar vest and helmet! Dec 7, 2007
Dave Fiorucci
Boulder, Colorado
 
[Hide Comment] See bomb proof anchor discussion. mountainproject.com/v/climb… Dec 7, 2007
Kevin Rivard
Canon City, CO
  5.9- PG13
[Hide Comment] Very well protected. crux around the second and third bolts. Aug 9, 2010
Burke Minahan
Minneapolis
  5.8+ PG13
[Hide Comment] I'd recommend bringing a crash pad up to cover the sketchy pit under the first bolt. Probably some gear down there too! Mar 20, 2019
Garth Donald
Chelan, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Anchor tat holds, getting a little stiff though. Probably needs replacing in '23 if anyone gets a chance. Nov 9, 2022