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Hans' Puss

5.7, Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches,  Avg: 2.9 from 133 votes
FA: Hans Kraus and Bonnie Prudden, 1951
New York > Gunks > Trapps > h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details


Hans' Puss starts just to the left of Feast of Fools, just right and downhill from the Arrow wall.

Pitch one climbs the face/corner/flake system, until an easy traverse above Feast of Fools leads to the shared bolt anchor. 5.7.

Pitch two traverses right, following the path of least resistance until you can move up, wander a bit, and finally pull a couple of exposed 5.7 moves to get to the GT ledge.

Pitch three begins with a short but easy off-width, then follows an obvious corner to a slightly tricky hand traverse to the finish. Pretty nice for 5.5.

From the top, rappel from the Arrow or Three Doves bolts.


Located just to the left of the start of Feast of Fools.


Standard rack. Bolts at the end of the first pitch (shared with F of F). Tree at the end of the second.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

picture of picture taking on Hans' Puss
[Hide Photo] picture of picture taking on Hans' Puss
Andrew Kontola finishing the pitch 1 traverse on Han's Puss.
[Hide Photo] Andrew Kontola finishing the pitch 1 traverse on Han's Puss.
Chris J. leading up P1 of Hans' Puss
[Hide Photo] Chris J. leading up P1 of Hans' Puss
The third pitch of Hans' Puss, which is much more fun than it looks at first glance.  Photo by Michael.
[Hide Photo] The third pitch of Hans' Puss, which is much more fun than it looks at first glance. Photo by Michael.
Jeff following Becky's lead of pitch 1
[Hide Photo] Jeff following Becky's lead of pitch 1
Alison nearing the end of pitch 1
[Hide Photo] Alison nearing the end of pitch 1
Leading the P2 traverse on a beautiful fall day.  Photo by Michael.
[Hide Photo] Leading the P2 traverse on a beautiful fall day. Photo by Michael.
A happy traverse
[Hide Photo] A happy traverse
An airy traverse
[Hide Photo] An airy traverse
JH at the belay ledge<br>
[Hide Photo] JH at the belay ledge
A December view of the valley from the GT Ledge on Han's Puss.
[Hide Photo] A December view of the valley from the GT Ledge on Han's Puss.
Andrew Kontola at the Han's Puss change over atop pitch 1.
[Hide Photo] Andrew Kontola at the Han's Puss change over atop pitch 1.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Do people normally rap from the GT after the second pitch? If so, from where? We did the (crappy) 3rd pitch and then rapped on Arrow. I didn't see any slings right where Han's Puss tops out on the GT, but it is possible to walk along the GT unroped at that point. May 21, 2009
[Hide Comment] Just did this route on Saturday, and I post this comment just to note that all three pitches are worthwhile. I thought the third pitch was interesting and different from the first two, not crappy at all - pretty nice for 5.5. The second pitch traverse is fun, followed by some nice 5.7 moves up to the GT ledge.

There is no rap station where the route reaches the GT ledge, but I would recommend going to the top and rapping at the Arrow bolts, it takes all of 30 seconds to get to the Arrow bolts. Seems like most people do just the first pitch and then rap from the chains, which I think is a pity. Aug 17, 2009
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
[Hide Comment] Loved the juggy fun fest on P1. What a great, airy traverse. It's all there, just suck it up and go. P2 was ok, not great. The best part of P2 is the vertical climbing; it's somewhat sustained and more interesting than the traverse. Did not do P3. Aug 14, 2010
Decatur, GA
[Hide Comment] Great route! Both P1 and P2 have some committing moves to get past. I thought P3 was fun and mellow compared to the first two, but the finish is exciting.

On P1, I didn't think the "obvious" exit referred to in the Grey Dick was all that obvious. I almost started traversing too low when I saw some juggy chalked-up holds and at least one pin out to the right, then thought better of it and continued up the corner to the correct exit. Another guy who led the route after me wasn't so lucky and got himself on what was probably the first pitch of Feast of Fools.

If people really are mostly doing only the first pitch, that's pretty sad. Oct 10, 2010
Matt Glue
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Robert: To rappel from the GT Ledge, the nearest rap station is about 200 feet to climber's left.

Awesome climb. Did anyone else find the second pitch worse than just PG? Jun 19, 2011
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
[Hide Comment] All pitches were PG (~15 foot runouts at worse). Pitch 3 starts on the face at a small offwidth, maybe 25 feet tall (climber's left after topping out on the GT ledge after P2). We didn't catch it in time for our leader to start elsewhere, although we ended up at the big corner and standard finish anyway.

P3 probably could be skipped as falls too short of the rest of the grade of climbing, and really only has a handful of good moves at the top (yes, another airy traverse!).

Traverse on P2 was spicey, we took the 5.5 variation described in the Williams guide. The ledge to belay from stunk and the moves getting out from under the small roof were, well, thin and exposed to say the least. Good traverse climbing nonetheless.

P1 has some nice layback style moves, then a short section of jughauling.

Definitely recommend this route. Oct 9, 2011
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.7 PG13
[Hide Comment] Not sure we went too high on the P2 traverse or not but damn were there a couple good runouts. Skipped P3 and did the last pitch of Silhouette to keep it at 5.7...great link up pitch.

Once you top out, you can rap from the Arrow bolts off to the left. However, if you have two ropes there is rap station just to climbers right from where Traverse of the Clods finishes. This is perhaps the best free-hanging rappel in the Gunks...amazing...and you get a great look at Twilight Zone. Two 60s will get you to the GT ledge. Apr 9, 2012
Galen Rahmlow
Woodbury, MN
[Hide Comment] The P1 traverse is wild. We tried to work the double ropes but it actually worked against us getting caught under ledges, best to alternate clipping because the rope drag wasn't really an issue. Jun 18, 2012
Germantown, MD
[Hide Comment] Just led this route and thought that it wasn't obvious where to start traversing right on P1. There were jugs and chalk marks all over the place. Traverse too low and you might end up on Feast of Fools. Traverse too high, you'll need to down climb to the chain anchors. P2 had a fun traverse. Thin face moves on the only path that's clear of lichen. P3 was mostly a dirty dihedral with a good finish. Jul 16, 2012
  5.7+ PG13
[Hide Comment] there are some good sized loose blocks at the P1 traverse, careful.

i thought P2 had sparse gear, although the traverse is protected at beginning and end. it's PG by the "crux is protected" rules but you definitely make a few moves feeling like you wish you had some more gear in.

there's a pin at the end of the P2 traverse, go ahead and clip it to be safe but there's a C3 about 3 feet above it and it's totally worth the small downclimb to unclip the pin and alleviate some rope drag.

another vote for doing all three pitches, i liked P3 and it's quick, and as mentioned leaves you super close to arrow's bolts. Oct 27, 2012
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
[Hide Comment] First pitch has fun corner and overhanging jug moves. Somehow I ended up 10' above the bolts after that pitch. The downclimb to them was fun in the dark. Rightward traverse is pretty exposed and exciting. It's all there though just stay sharp. Pitch 3 corner is worthwhile as well. Great climb. Apr 27, 2013
Reading, VT
[Hide Comment] Just did all 3 pitches of this route last week. When onsighting this line, the crux is route finding! I agree there is a lot of chalk to carry you astray on P1, but if you are an experienced gunks leader you should find the traversing lines on both P1 and P2. DO NOT MISS Pitches 2 and 3 as they are all a part of the great adventure that is Hans Puss! Enjoy! Apr 29, 2013
[Hide Comment] It is possible to climb too high before moving right, on P1. There is chalk that leads you up to a fine 5.6 traverse that unfortunately leaves you 12 feet about the bolts. Easy down climb but sucks for the second. Instead, go right before the roof. Apr 10, 2014
A.wilk Wilk
Olympia, WA
[Hide Comment] The second pitch of this needs to see some more traffic! At the belay it looks like things are dicey and thin but it is actually quite well protected. I was confused where to go at first but if you head directly to the right for 15 feet you will get a couple really good hand holds that take medium cams. Keep heading right a bit and eventually look up for the path of least lichen. After the traverse this thing gets seriously lichenous but keep chugging and you get rewarded with some fun steep moves.

We walked over and finished on the top pitch of Arrow, which made for 3 pitches of fantastic climbing. Aug 4, 2015
worth russell
Brooklyn, NY
[Hide Comment] On pitch one you need to traverse right lower than expected. When you see a pin out right at first large ledge, move right. Going up will result in your being 15 feet above anchors with no good spot to belay. Aug 13, 2015
[Hide Comment] Great route all the way to the top with classic gunks climbing and cruxy route finding. P1 has nice 5.6 steep climbing in a corner. Start traversing right when it gets too steep. P2 is pure joy if you can be patient and thoughtful with finding your way. I actually finished P2 on Silhouette because the hand crack was too inviting to pass on. This is a really nice variation but apparently goes at 5.7+. P3 is ok. To reduce drag I would consider setting up a belay at the very base of the corner of this pitch instead of the top of P2.

>>>>>Gear Beta<<<<<<< Extra finger-sized and slightly larger cams are nice for P2 traverse. Apr 18, 2016