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Routes in Whale Dome

Blood Brother T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Call Me Ishmael T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dem Bones T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Harpoon Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moby Dick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South Face T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
South Face Direct Finish // Mobius Strip T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trojan, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,593 total, 13/month
Shared By: Mike Diesen on Oct 15, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Boulder up on the left of the aerate and traverse right to the crack. This would be the crux. Jam the crack and head straight up to the overhanging offwidth. Rappel back to the notch from a tree (or sling a chickenhead) up top.

Location

This route is not on Whale Dome per se, but is located just across (formation looks like a Trojan helmet viewing from the west) from the rappel of Whale Dome and is an excellent single pitch route to top off the day after climbing Whale Dome. After reaching the ground from the Whale Dome rappel, you will be in a notch. Head east to the end of the notch to where you are standing on a boulder on the edge of the notch. Now look up to the north. There is an aerate with a jam crack mid-way high and then an overhanging offwidth-roof near the top.

Protection

Set of cams and nuts. Slings for the belay and repel.

Photos

You can hike off this route to the east. Go north off the top and head east down through some trees until you can head south back to the base of the climb. Oct 15, 2007