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Mescalito - South Face
Trad, 1000 ft, 9 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 2.5 from 2
FA: FRA: Karsten Duncan, Andrew Gomoll, Larry DeAngelo
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rock
> 10-Pine Creek C…
Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet.
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
This is a surprisingly good route up the left side of the south face of the Mescalito Tower. Despite being on a south-facing wall, this route is not a great choice for very cold weather, as it gets a lot of shade from Juniper Peak in the winter.
p1. Easy cracks lead up to a belay in an alcove. p2. Move left to cracks that lead back right above the big overhang. p3. An easy chimney leads up and right. Exit left to a ledge with a bush. p4. Climb up and left, over two ribs, to a right-leaning ramp. p5. At the top of the ramp, balance up and go a long way left. Climb a varnished offwidth to a belay near a tree. p6. Easy rock leads up and left to a large ledge. p7. A few friction moves lead to a steep, right-facing corner. p8. Climb the easier face to a belay beneath a long, right-leaning ramp. p9. Follow the ramp to the top.
Walk upstream from the Cat in the Hat area for a few hundred yards, passing beneath a weirdly eroded wall with an ominous, dirty chimney. Continue to the area where the canyon branches and start below a cave-like overhang.