Avg: 1 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 480 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||probably a rodent|
|Page Views:||64 total · 1/month|
|Shared By:||Leo Paik on Oct 13, 2007|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionOkay, it may be a bit controversial to enter these routes, but the rock is on NP land, and they've been described in various guidebooks.
This is a modest route on an moderately obscure rock. It follows the blunt, south ridge for a few hundred feet. Not a destination climb, but if you are there....
Find the approximate nadir of the rock. This does require some scrambling.
P1. Ascend a nice, low-angled crack with some brief stemming. There is a chockstone on the right at the crux. 170'. 5.7.
P2. The crux of this pitch seems to be right off the belay, 7+, little pro. Then dance up a fun face section, perhaps PG-13. Save a #3 & #3.5 Camalot for the belay. 200'. 5.7+.
P3. Drop down into a slot/chimney, move over to the slab and cruise up easier terrain to a 2 bolt anchor. 110'. 5.5.
You can rap off the anchor to the west into a slot and down. You may be able to continue another pitch to the top of the Sunshine Daydream anchor and rap.
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