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Routes in Warm-up Traverse Area

Blocky Overhang V1-2 5
Face Right of High Gravity V2+ 5+
Finger Ladder V1-2 5
Gypsy Devil V1 5
High Gravity aka Slots V4 6B
Left Crack V1-2 5
Left Crack, The V0 4
Offwidth V2 5+
Part of A Warmup Traverse V1+ 5
Return to Dirt V7 7A+
Riddler, The V5-6 6C+
Right of Gypsy Devil V4 6B
Terribilitá V4+ 6B+
Warmup Pockets V0 4
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder
FA: Toby Gerard?/Mike Dawson?/Ben Zietz?
Page Views: 2,884 total, 23/month
Shared By: Toby Gerard on Oct 13, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The crux is a small bump with the right hand coming up from a match on a huge jug in the center of the problem. Work those feet on the bottom!!!!

Location

The route/traverse is located directly oppostite the Done Deal Dyno problem. The start is a match within the small cave and you then work your way right.

Protection

A pad and a spotter will be enough.
half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
  V0
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
  V0
Sean, I believe you're talking about Terrebilita. Feb 12, 2012
sean g  
I was curious if anyone had any information on the other problem that starts in the same place, but instead of traversing out right, you go straight up the bulge to the arete and two little pocket/crimps on the face then pop to the jug. It feels like at least V5, but of course I could be wrong. Any information would be great. Thanks. Feb 11, 2012
I did a version of this a few years ago doing my best to track or keep my feet above the jug line until I got around the corner. Not really all that much harder, but it was pretty fun and was able to get some cool pics from the top of The Cube. May 25, 2011
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
V1
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
V1
This problem is located within the middle of a nice long warm-up traverse. Start way left where the trail meets the wall on a large undercling flake, and go to the right. Where the "pod" that marks this problem is, you can go low, or straight across at chest height. Finish out to the right on a slab where you step-off onto a knife-edged rock buried in the dirt. As far as the earlier comments regrading first ascents.... Seems a little sketchy when an area is clean as this one is. A sound philosophy may be to do a little research into an area before claiming a first ascent (at least if all of the holds are clean.) Obviously if you are out there with the brush removing lichen for hours at a time, and have seen no evidence of prior activity, then it May be a first.... Also consider that the pioneers may have looked at it once, sent it, and never returned.... Hate it when that happens. Oct 21, 2009
This problem doesn't have a name. It's generally been considered a warm up for many years, probably as early as the areas initial development. Dec 7, 2008
half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
  V0
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
  V0
I would have to agree with Sean.... I'm sure that's been climbed before 2007.... Oct 21, 2008
You guys must have gotten the F.A. a long time ago?! Funny, that I don't recall anybody ever calling this problem by that name. You guy's might want to get your shit together before claiming a F.A. Jan 4, 2008
Toby Gerard
Denver, CO
 
Toby Gerard   Denver, CO
 
My bad, bro...I was way drunk...let's just squeeze some juice from those holds. Oct 19, 2007
Ben Zietz  
 
Come on, Toby, this problem moves from left to right, and I've known how to spell your name for years.... Oct 16, 2007