Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Doda Dome

Silcone Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Tittely Winks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 380 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Grant Hiskes, Pat Ranstrom, Greg Rustler, 8-1982.
Page Views: 921 total, 7/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 13, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

I believe that the name is supposed to be "Silicone Corner".
Near the top of the west face is a prominent right facing corner, rising from a ledge.
Climb 200 ft. of easy 5th class and move left (5.7), to this ledge. Follow the corner to the top.
Walk off.

Protection

Pro to 3".
Ed Henicle
Santa Rosa, CA
Ed Henicle   Santa Rosa, CA
Great route - get on it!

P1 - 5.5R - you can go right then back left to avoid some of the runout

P2 - 5.7+ tricky bulge with pretty good pro

P3 - 5.7+ corner - burly, old school - love it - probably 5.9 at other crags. I was able to get pro at the start of the pitch, so not runout. Take 2 #3 and one #4 Jul 18, 2016
Todd Townsend
Bishop, CA
  5.8
Todd Townsend   Bishop, CA
  5.8
Great route, totally worthy. It would get another star if only the fist two pitches weren't so scrappy.

The route is 5.7, but only if you have man-sized hands as the crack is consistently #2-#3 BD (and sometimes larger) sized. My girlfriend, who's perfect hand size is #1 BD, had a difficult time with this pitch. She got up it, but had to employ her full arsenal of wide crack trickery: handstacks, fists, and funky-chicken armbars. I, on the other hand, find #2's to be perfect, and I can cup #3's. To me, it felt like a burly old school 5.7. To her, it felt much harder.

We had 2 #2's and 2 #3's and it was adequate, but she still had to run it in places. If this is at your limit, I'd recommend tripling up on #2's and #3's and maybe bring a #4 a well. For comparison, I think it's much harder than Bull Dozier. Aug 18, 2013
timmaly
South Lake Tahoe, CA
timmaly   South Lake Tahoe, CA
Climbed this two weeks ago. Awesome route! ST describes it as 'burly, old-school 5.7' and we found that to be spot on. The corner is high on the west side of Doda Dome and you need to climb two runout but easy slab pitches (with one short 5.7 problem) to access the base of the dihedral. The corner itself requires a varied mix of hands, offwidth, lieback, stemming and face climbing to ascend. Fun, full-value experience and you are rewarded with stellar views from the top. Walk-off is really easy. Doesn't get climbed very often due to lack of approach trail, but its only ~20 mins past Daff Dome. We saw at least 5 parties clogging up West Crack and we were the only ones on Doda Dome. Jul 27, 2013