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Routes in Honeymooner's Wall

Honeymooners S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Metro S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Scott Harris, Mike Head 1989
Page Views: 148 total, 1/month
Shared By: climnron on Oct 12, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

The same start as Honeymooners, but at the third bolt head up the left line. A fun route with lots of good edges and rests.

Location

East face of Punch and Judy Towers

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
Four months after my question, I finally climbed this route. Metro features mostly big holds over solid rock. The only thing keeping this great line from being classic are the multiple ledges which detract from the flow.

This 105ft route consists of 14 bolts to two sets of fixed anchors. At least 4 alpine draws with shoulder length slings are recommended to reduce rope drag as the route wanders. An older, more easily accessible, recessed pair of anchor bolts is found at the top of the formation. A newer set of anchor chains is 5-10ft to the right of where the climb finishes. A 70m rope is ideal but a 60m rope can be used if one uses the midpoint anchors on Honeymooners when lowering. The first bolt is 20ft off the deck and exposed. The climbing to reach this bolt is very mild but the rock is slightly questionable. A optional piece of gear can be used to protect initial moves if desired. The route goes into the shade around 11:30am making for good temps much of the year. Mar 14, 2016
climnron  
 
There were anchors with chains back when I posted this route. I rapped in with a 60, but had to down climb the last 10 to 15 feet to the ground. It is just 4th class scrambling down a flake if I remember correctly. A 70 would definitely reach without a problem. Nov 26, 2015
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
My understanding is that this route lacks anchors. If anchors were added would it be possible to lower with a 60m? 70m? Seems like it would be possibly if one would clipped into the rope. I have not climbed or even looked at this line but I am interested and lazy. Nov 23, 2015
FA was done by Scott Harris and Mike Head in 1989. This is a really good climb. Oct 12, 2007