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Routes in Cirque of the Climbables - Left Side

Glue Rhymes with Poo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Labyrinth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Macho Combo, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mommy Dearest T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pleasure Principle T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rei Momo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Remain in Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Slap and Tickle T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Soup Rhymes with Poop T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
That's Powell Not Rowell T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Treasure of the Sierra Madre T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Kevin Powell, Mike Rodrique & Dave Evans, January 1990
Page Views: 191 total, 2/month
Shared By: john durr on Oct 10, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb a right arching hand crack to a large stuck block, jam the left side of the block to exit the arete then up easy face climbing. Hopefully the block will not fall off while you are climbing it.

Location

This crack route is in the east alcove of the first buttress east of Treasure of the Sierra Madre. To descend climb over to the next buttress east (exposed easy 5th class) and then walk down east near Pleasure Principal.

Protection

Cams 1-3" assorted small aliens for easy face above. No fixed anchor - tie off the loose summit blocks.

Photos

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toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
FA: Todd Gordon, Kevin Powell, Mike Rodrique, Dave Evans 1-90 Feb 4, 2013
Some fun steep hand-jamming to be had here. I cleaned a bunch of loose rock out of the lower crack, should be more enjoyable for future parties. The huge block seems solid, right? I yarded on it anyway..

To descend - step across the void to climber's right (wise to stay roped up for this), onto the next summit, then descend one of several gully/chimney systems between the towers. Feb 4, 2013