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Routes in Cirque of the Climbables - Left Side

Glue Rhymes with Poo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Labyrinth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Macho Combo, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mommy Dearest T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pleasure Principle T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rei Momo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Remain in Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Slap and Tickle T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Soup Rhymes with Poop T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
That's Powell Not Rowell T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Treasure of the Sierra Madre T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: David Evans, Todd Battey, Jan 1990
Page Views: 536 total, 4/month
Shared By: john durr on Oct 10, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb the right arete on the first buttress west of Treasure of the Sierra Madre. A serious lead on easier terrain and a very nice line.

Location

Walk off north east then down gully near Pleasure Principal. Faces southwest.

Protection

Two bolts protect the arete, the first about 35 feet up and the second about 30 feet above that. Harder climbing right above each bolt then easing. Smaller aliens and sling for horn tie-off for some gear way above the second bolt. Gear anchor medium cams.

Photos

D. Evans
Tustin, California
D. Evans   Tustin, California
Correction: Todd must have been confused.

"Remain in Light".... We first called it "The White Arete" but "Remain in Light" was much Better.

FA David Evans, Todd Battey, Jan 1990 Apr 19, 2015
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
FA; Kevin Powell, Hamish Morrison, Mike Rodrique, Todd Gordon 1-90 Jun 12, 2014
I had more fun on this one than the "classic" Treasures of the Sierra Madre next door. Impeccable rock quality on a rather long line. Don't expect much for supplemental gear - a piece or two can be had in the initial crack, then traverse out to the arĂȘte and clip the two bolts. A tiny nut/cam can be placed high above the second bolt. Probably not X, but definitely R. Be solid at the grade before attempting this one. Feb 4, 2013
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
Not an "X" climb. The cruxes are protected by the bolts. You can also bring some thin cams and a set of nuts if you want some supplementary gear. Fun climbing on good rock. Feb 10, 2010