Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lower Decadent - Asian Wall

Box Lunch T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Just Hold Still T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Self Abuse T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sportin' A Woody T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Steppes of Central Asia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trip to Iraq T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: D. Bingham
Page Views: 129 total · 1/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on Oct 10, 2007
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


18 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A nice route with protection where you need it. Much more enjoyable than clipping a bolt by a naturally protectable feature, which is how this route would be bolted today. The crux is at the start and the vertically challenged could find this route PG-13 reaching the first bolt at 15 feet, not to mention considerably harder getting off the ground. Once the petina feature is reached however, the climbing becomes much easier to the bolt. The most enjoyable part of this route is finding the incut holds almost completely invisible from below. Shame to the hangdogger that ticked all the holds a couple weeks ago.

Location

This route is at the south end of the Breadloaves formation. It faces west on the Asia wall and starts in a grassy field directly across from the firepit of campsite #58.

Protection

Three bolts and a chain anchor. Bring a single rack of cams from green alien to a 2" piece. Nice pods present themselves midway between the first two bolts. A third clip up high rounds out the frugal but well bolted route.

Photos

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
One of my favorite routes at the City. You'll feel a sweet sense of accomplishment at the chains. This one felt like an old-school Joshua Tree route to me (where I learned, and love, to climb).

If your comfortable at the grade, get on this one! It's safe, but you'll earn each bolt/placement. Oct 10, 2007
can you say Pink Tri-Cam ! Jun 15, 2010

More About Self Abuse

Printer-Friendly