Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dave Bingham, Jay Goodwin
Page Views: 192 total · 1/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on Oct 10, 2007
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

A nice route with protection where you need it. Much more enjoyable than clipping a bolt by a naturally protectable feature, which is how this route would be bolted today. The crux is at the start and the vertically challenged could find this route PG-13 reaching the first bolt at 15 feet, not to mention considerably harder getting off the ground. Once the petina feature is reached however, the climbing becomes much easier to the bolt. The most enjoyable part of this route is finding the incut holds almost completely invisible from below. Shame to the hangdogger that ticked all the holds a couple weeks ago.

Location

This route is at the south end of the Breadloaves formation. It faces west on the Asia wall and starts in a grassy field directly across from the firepit of campsite #58.

Protection

Three bolts and a chain anchor. Bring a single rack of cams from green alien to a 2" piece. Nice pods present themselves midway between the first two bolts. A third clip up high rounds out the frugal but well bolted route.

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Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
One of my favorite routes at the City. You'll feel a sweet sense of accomplishment at the chains. This one felt like an old-school Joshua Tree route to me (where I learned, and love, to climb).

If your comfortable at the grade, get on this one! It's safe, but you'll earn each bolt/placement. Oct 10, 2007
can you say Pink Tri-Cam ! Jun 15, 2010
FA - Jay Goodwin / D. Bingham Aug 9, 2018
FA was Bingham belayed by Goodwin. I was bummed that I had not seen the line that Dave had. It is a great route, wish I could say it was mine. Also learned later, from Dave, that it turns out the Pocatello crew (Chris and Amy Barnes I think, maybe Stan Caldwell, Spurlocks maybe) had spied the line and TR'd the route shortly before Dave equipped it. This is one of the best routes in this area. Yellow and blue TCUs highly recommended! Nov 20, 2018