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Routes in Block Wall

Beth S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
L.A. Bandit S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Left Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Seth S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shane S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Kirk Miller? (before bolts?)
Page Views: 1,828 total, 15/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Oct 9, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

This is the left-most route. Some people whine about its existence, but what else are you going to do, drive farther? The crux is getting off the ground with scary ground fall potential.

Protection

quickdraws, 2BA

Photos

Byron Marohn
Portland, OR
 
Byron Marohn   Portland, OR
 
At 5'8" I actually quite like the first bolt on this one. It's high, sure, but you can just reach it from the good pinch/jug before committing to the initial crux. With the draw clipped, the crux is nicely protected for such a low crux.

If you're a little shorter, a short stick/twig and some tape should be good enough to get the first draw hung. No stick clip required IMO. Jul 23, 2017
Jarred Cleerdin  
  5.9
Its worth running up. Good foot work will make the starting moves static and feel about 5.9 if your throwing for that first good hold a couple feet up from the lip you are probably not being very creative with your side pulls and footwork. Jun 10, 2010
Robin
Albuquerque, NM
Robin   Albuquerque, NM
Not reccommended. Dirty, slopey and often full of water. First time I did it I thought it was supposed to be a 5.8. It is NOT a 5.8. Jun 1, 2009
Nick Manke
Edgewood, NM
Nick Manke   Edgewood, NM
The start to this one will take you by surprise. Like others I'd say this move is more challenging than any of the moves on the area favorite just to the right. Oct 28, 2008
Dave Wachter  
 
Actually harder than the route just to the right (especially the start, which is NEVER 5.9+), and much poorer quality. Best to skip it. May 25, 2008