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Bunga Bunga

5.12a, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: unknown
New Mexico > Jemez Mountains… > Capulin Canyon… > Eagle Canyon

Description

Another excellent, long line. This route features sustained difficulty with numerous hard sections split by good rests.

The route begins at the base of the west-facing wall and heads up, veering right as you ascend. The access trail to Didgemaster offers great opportunities for photography, making this line quite photogenic.

The route begins relatively easily. After about 25 feet, head right via sequential pockets left of the cave pod, where a good shake is possible. Continue up left of the subtle seam. A difficult traverse is followed by s descent rest, then a sequential traverse around the rooflet, where good, deep pockets lead to the anchor.

Location

Immediately left and downhill of Didgemaster.

Protection

Many bolts, 2 BA. Its possible but tricky/dangerous to rig a toprope on this route. It requires an exposed 4th class scramble, and fixing a rope around the giant boulder atop the pillar, and rapping off this boulder to reach the anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Climbing "Bunga Bunga" in Eagle Canyon.
[Hide Photo] Climbing "Bunga Bunga" in Eagle Canyon.
Bunga Bunga.
[Hide Photo] Bunga Bunga.