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D.P.O.S.

5.10+ C1 PG13, Trad, Aid, 160 ft (48 m),  Avg: 0 from 1 vote
FA: Ben Folsom and Maura Hahnenberger Oct. 6, 2007
Utah > S Central Utah > San Rafael Swell > San Rafael Swel… > Lucky Strike Mine Area

Description

This route is a sandy, dirty and difficult offwidth crack climbing rotten rock. Scramble up to the base of the crack with a few committing and very runout moves before getting to the crack. Loose and sandy jamming gets wider and wider. Pass a bolt at about 50 feet from the start of the crack. Continue up as the crack gets wider. The crack becomes too wide for even #5 camalots. I ended up placing a 5 bolt ladder to the right of the offwidth due to a snowstorm, no protection and super sandy rock. This offwidth will go free, but it will be very hard. (but at least there is good protection now.) After the bolts there is about 10 more feet of 5.10 offwidth to get to a saddle just below the summit of the tower and a two bolt anchor. I did not continue to the summit due to the softness of the rock. It was some of the worst rock I have ever climbed on.

Location

In the Lucky Strike Mine area there is a side canyon just south of the main Lucky Strike Mine canyon. Near the bottom of this canyon on the Southwest side near the mouth is a tower with a wide crack splitting the center facing down canyon. D.P.O.S. climbs this crack system.

Protection

3 sets of cams from #0.5 camalot to #5 camalot.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Ben Folsom on the first ascent of D.P.O.S.
[Hide Photo] Ben Folsom on the first ascent of D.P.O.S.
Maura Hahnenberger rapping off of D.P.O.S. after the first ascent.
[Hide Photo] Maura Hahnenberger rapping off of D.P.O.S. after the first ascent.
D.P.O.S. Tower.  The route climbs the obvious offwidth crack in the center of the face.
[Hide Photo] D.P.O.S. Tower. The route climbs the obvious offwidth crack in the center of the face.
Ben Folsom on the first ascent of D.P.O.S.
[Hide Photo] Ben Folsom on the first ascent of D.P.O.S.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Citsalp
. . . CO
[Hide Comment] Wow, this actually looked quite good in comparison to other D.P.O.S's I've climbed. Must be a mankfest.
I figured both of those towers had been climbed, but there was always hope.
Sure is a neat area. Good job Ben.
Apr 11, 2010
Ben Folsom
  5.10+ C1
[Hide Comment] Yeah, I have climbed lots of DPOS's as well, and I would have to say that this looked much better than it was and was some of the worst rock I've ever climbed on (except Mancos Shale!!!). Or I could have just been nervous. Apr 12, 2010