Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Shipwreck Wall - River Face

Feel the Chi S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shipwreck (1st pitch only) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Time To Power S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Time To Power (1st pitch only) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Time To Shower S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,499 total · 11/month
Shared By: JohnK on Oct 8, 2007 with updates from Tiffany Samson
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


87 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The first pitch to Time To Power is only mentioned in Watt's book as something where "you have to plow through an ugly approach pitch to get to the real [5.12c] climbing". Occasional ascents during the last decade on the sparsely placed bolts has improved this pitch to "fun for some" status.
The standard, straight-up start to reach the high on the wall first bolt can be made a bit easier by using a modest ramp system just uphill and to the right of the direct start. The somewhat tricky crux is protected by the second bolt.

Location

Just uphill from Time To Shower and Shipwreck.

Protection

6 bolts on first pitch. Two bolt anchor (could/should be improved if pitch gets more traffic).

Photos

Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
  5.8
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
  5.8
Nothing harder than 5.8. Fun for the grade Nov 9, 2015
Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
  5.9
Patrick Beeson   Portland, OR
  5.9
Don't fear the high first bolt! Apr 30, 2018
John Clark
San Francisco, CA
  5.9
John Clark   San Francisco, CA
  5.9
Great photo op for a new leader May 29, 2018
Tiffany Samson
Seattle, WA
  5.10a
Tiffany Samson   Seattle, WA
  5.10a
There seems to be some confusion here on which route is the 5.10a Time to Power (1st pitch) and the new route to the left of it which is a 5.9 and not in Watt's Book. A guide verified the routes while I was at the wall. Time to Power on the right has its first bolt at the same height as the 2nd bolt of the 5.9. It is high friction rock with many options for moves, a solid 5.10a, and the route goes straight up. Route is chossy.

The 5.9 is on the left. The ground slopes downward and the first bolt was higher than my stick clip fully extended + another extension. There are hueco style holds on the bottom. Good pockets. All clipping holds are big. The last bolt is a little ridiculous and unnecessary since it's a foot below the anchor. 5 sparsely spaced bolts. It seemed easier to me than the 5.8 Time to Shower. Jul 25, 2018

More About Time To Power (1st pitch only)

Printer-Friendly