Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,617 total · 12/month
Shared By: JohnK on Oct 8, 2007 with updates from Tiffany Samson
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


97 Opinions

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Description

The first pitch to Time To Power is only mentioned in Watt's book as something where "you have to plow through an ugly approach pitch to get to the real [5.12c] climbing". Occasional ascents during the last decade on the sparsely placed bolts has improved this pitch to "fun for some" status.
The standard, straight-up start to reach the high on the wall first bolt can be made a bit easier by using a modest ramp system just uphill and to the right of the direct start. The somewhat tricky crux is protected by the second bolt.

Location

Just uphill from Time To Shower and Shipwreck.

Protection

5 bolts on first pitch. Two bolt anchor (could/should be improved if pitch gets more traffic).

Photos

Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
  5.8
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
  5.8
Nothing harder than 5.8. Fun for the grade Nov 9, 2015
Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
  5.9
Patrick Beeson   Portland, OR
  5.9
Don't fear the high first bolt! Apr 30, 2018
John Clark
San Francisco, CA
  5.9
John Clark   San Francisco, CA
  5.9
Great photo op for a new leader May 29, 2018
Tiffany Samson
Seattle, WA
  5.9
Tiffany Samson   Seattle, WA
  5.9
At the base, the ground slopes downward. First bolt is at the same height as the second bolt of Feel the Chi to the right. It's higher than my stick clip fully extended + another extension. There are hueco style holds on the bottom. Good pockets. All clipping holds are big. The last bolt is a unnecessary since it's a foot below the anchor. 5 sparsely spaced bolts. It seemed easier to me than the 5.8 Time to Shower, and has much better flow. Jul 25, 2018