The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that: 1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor. 2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
Start with a high pinch/lieback and smooth, undercut feet, pull into the rock and use creative body english to reach some high sloping edges. Bust left to a good edge, then stem and reach for a sculpted jug and on to the juggy top.
Downclimb the juggy crack just right to descend.
Location
Up the center of the boulder and about 5' left of Spud Crack.
[Hide Comment] It was around 1977, we had a team of boulderers out for the day to a new area, beyond Cap Rock ! As I remember, it was Largo, Mike and Mari, Bullwinkle, Kesey, Jessica, me, and RV may have been with us as well. I was around 17 years old. Largo shows us the "Real Up 20'", and then we move on to the Stone Hedge Boulders and do some FAs there. Then we spot a lone boulder near the road, and we all say "let's check it out". When we check out the North Face, we are all like OMG!!!, this thing is awesome, so we start throwing ourselves at it, one after another, and all of us got shut down at the mid section.. Then Bullwinkle throws a crazy heel hook off to the right and reaches left, but falls. A couple more people try and flail, but I was watching all these attempts and putting together a plan. So my turn comes, I do the first moves, throw a heel hook off right, reach out left, center my weight, and off I go for the top!! They are fire the route after me, either with a heel hook or none at all. Largo ceremoniously claims "It shall be named "The Fry Problem""
Feb 7, 2019
[Hide Comment] A friend and I did this problem by starting at the far right rail of spud crack and traversing in to the start rail of Fry. The moves are there and makes for an even more fun addition to this already great problem. I think it brings it up to a v3, maybe harder? Try it and let me know!
Feb 3, 2020
Try the traverse that @Cody Sheppard mentioned adds some really fun moves. Feels like V3 if your start on the furthest sloper hold to the right of “Spud Crack.”
Jun 29, 2020
Avg: 3.7 from 168
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
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As I remember, it was Largo, Mike and Mari, Bullwinkle, Kesey, Jessica, me, and RV may have been with us as well. I was around 17 years old.
Largo shows us the "Real Up 20'", and then we move on to the Stone Hedge Boulders and do some FAs there.
Then we spot a lone boulder near the road, and we all say "let's check it out". When we check out the North Face, we are all like OMG!!!, this thing is awesome, so we start throwing ourselves at it, one after another, and all of us got shut down at the mid section..
Then Bullwinkle throws a crazy heel hook off to the right and reaches left, but falls. A couple more people try and flail, but I was watching all these attempts and putting together a plan. So my turn comes, I do the first moves, throw a heel hook off right, reach out left, center my weight, and off I go for the top!!
They are fire the route after me, either with a heel hook or none at all.
Largo ceremoniously claims "It shall be named "The Fry Problem"" Feb 7, 2019
Joshua Tree, CA
Joshua Tree, CA
Try the traverse that @Cody Sheppard mentioned adds some really fun moves. Feels like V3 if your start on the furthest sloper hold to the right of “Spud Crack.” Jun 29, 2020
CA
youtu.be/NPo1LvIq54A Dec 28, 2022
San Diego, CA