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Lizard Action

5.10+, Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 2.2 from 5 votes
FA: Robert Warren, Steve Wood, and Jeff Web, Spring 1983
Utah > Southeast Utah > Island In The Sky > Bird's View But… > Luminous Being
Access Issue: Wildlife Closures Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Pitch 1:
We climbed up the first pitch of Crow's Beak. Starting on the northwest side of the tower locate a large chimney, climb cracks inside the chimney and loose rock to the ledge where the black line starts in the photograph.
-There are other variations to this first pitch, you can climb up the north face to the ledge, or climb just north of the northern prow to the ledge. Whatever looks good to you just get to were the black line starts. 5.10, 120'.

Pitch 2:
Follow cracks up and left to loose rock and a small roof. By pass roof and follow the crack to a small ledge (place the #4 by your feet while standing on ledge). Relax. From here move left to a drilled pin, move up and left to the arete and another drilled pin and an alcove/roof. Place as much shit gear as possible (I had 5 equalized pieces and that wouldn't have held a fall). Relax. Make the final easy moves to the anchor. (these moves are easier then they appear). Another anchor is on the notch side of the tower. 5.10+, 130'.

Descent: Rappel to the Notch and then to the ground.

Location

Start on the North side or on the Northwest side.

Protection

Standard Rack, 1 old #4 camalot for pitch 2.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Matt on pitch 1 of Crow's Beak.
[Hide Photo] Matt on pitch 1 of Crow's Beak.
Looking down at Ben at the second rappel's anchors in the notch from the rappel off Luminous Being. This rappel is used to get off both towers.
[Hide Photo] Looking down at Ben at the second rappel's anchors in the notch from the rappel off Luminous Being. This rappel is used to get off both towers.
Luminous Being's summit from the top of Don Juan. Lizard Action tops out at a different anchor on the other side, then you rap to the notch from the anchors visable. You can also see the ammo can register.
[Hide Photo] Luminous Being's summit from the top of Don Juan. Lizard Action tops out at a different anchor on the other side, then you rap to the notch from the anchors visable. You can also see the ammo can r…
Matt on top of Luminous being.  Summit of don juan visible in the background.
[Hide Photo] Matt on top of Luminous being. Summit of don juan visible in the background.
The black line is pitch 2.  The X's are drilled pins. (photo by Brad Brandewie)
[Hide Photo] The black line is pitch 2. The X's are drilled pins. (photo by Brad Brandewie)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

ben jammin
Moab, UT
 
[Hide Comment] I'm not sure if I'm qualified to comment on this route but I think we did do the second pitch so take it for what its worth. I would recommend NOT starting anywhere on the E face. I think this route starts on the NW face but we were yearning for sun so early in the morning. I trundled multiple microwave blocks on what looked like a 5.7 chimney. Second pitch was pretty good, actually. Heads up face climbing at the top protected by two drilled angles that were in good condition. Oct 16, 2013