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Routes in Luminous Being

Lizard Action T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches, Grade III
FA: Robert Warren, Steve Wood, and Jeff Web, Spring 1983
Page Views: 1,499 total · 12/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Oct 7, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Pitch 1:
We climbed up the first pitch of Crow's Beak. Starting on the northwest side of the tower locate a large chimney, climb cracks inside the chimney and loose rock to the ledge where the black line starts in the photograph.
-There are other variations to this first pitch, you can climb up the north face to the ledge, or climb just north of the northern prow to the ledge. Whatever looks good to you just get to were the black line starts. 5.10, 120'.

Pitch 2:
Follow cracks up and left to loose rock and a small roof. By pass roof and follow the crack to a small ledge (place the #4 by your feet while standing on ledge). Relax. From here move left to a drilled pin, move up and left to the arete and another drilled pin and an alcove/roof. Place as much shit gear as possible (I had 5 equalized pieces and that wouldn't have held a fall). Relax. Make the final easy moves to the anchor. (these moves are easier then they appear). Another anchor is on the notch side of the tower. 5.10+, 130'.

Descent: Rappel to the Notch and then to the ground.

Location

Start on the North side or on the Northwest side.

Protection

Standard Rack, 1 old #4 camalot for pitch 2.

Photos

ben jammin
Moab, UT
 
ben jammin   Moab, UT
 
I'm not sure if I'm qualified to comment on this route but I think we did do the second pitch so take it for what its worth. I would recommend NOT starting anywhere on the E face. I think this route starts on the NW face but we were yearning for sun so early in the morning. I trundled multiple microwave blocks on what looked like a 5.7 chimney. Second pitch was pretty good, actually. Heads up face climbing at the top protected by two drilled angles that were in good condition. Oct 16, 2013

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