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Yesterday's News Variation
5.10,
Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 1.5 from 2
votes
FA: Jason Keith, Greg "the child" Bimesteffer, May 1993
Utah
> Southeast Utah
> Island In The Sky
> Bird's View But…
> Don Juan Spire
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Pitch 1:
Starting on the south ridge, Scramble up easy rock aiming for a cleaner crack, climb the cleaner crack until you can step right onto a belay ledge with a bolted anchor 5.9, 120'.
Pitch 2:
Face climb straight left 20'+ to a crack (mind the rope drag). Climb up cracks to a small roof, climb up and left over the roof. Climb the offwidth to easier OW to a large ledge(possible belay or continue to the summit). From the ledge follow the crack angling up and left to the summit. Climb over the summit to the anchor. 5.10, 130'+.
Descent:
Rappel to the notch between the towers, and to the ground.
Location
The route starts on the south ridge of Don Juan Spire.
Protection
Standard rack with a few larger pieces.
[Hide Photo] Matt on pitch 1. The belay ledge is up and to his right (White slings just visible).
[Hide Photo] On top of Don Juan Spire