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Routes in Don Juan Spire

Don Juan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Unknown (Southwest Arete) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Yesterday's News T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2
Yesterday's News Variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jason Keith, Greg "the child" Bimesteffer, May 1993
Page Views: 1,126 total, 9/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Oct 7, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Pitch 1:
Starting on the south ridge, Scramble up easy rock aiming for a cleaner crack, climb the cleaner crack until you can step right onto a belay ledge with a bolted anchor 5.9, 120'.

Pitch 2:
Face climb straight left 20'+ to a crack (mind the rope drag). Climb up cracks to a small roof, climb up and left over the roof. Climb the offwidth to easier OW to a large ledge(possible belay or continue to the summit). From the ledge follow the crack angling up and left to the summit. Climb over the summit to the anchor. 5.10, 130'+.

Descent:
Rappel to the notch between the towers, and to the ground.

Location

The route starts on the south ridge of Don Juan Spire.

Protection

Standard rack with a few larger pieces.

Photos

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