Seams to Me
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Aid, 80 ft|
|FA:||Keith Lober and Aaron Walters, 1977|
|Page Views:||96 total · 1/month|
|Shared By:||Jarrett Tishmack on Oct 7, 2007|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThe Window Rock holds an excellent aid line up the overhanging north face. This is a strenuous route that will work your core muscles! The rock is good quality and the fall is clean. Chances are good that you'll have the rock, and the whole ridge for that matter, to yourself. The seam on the upper wall is accessed by a traverse from the northwest arete of the rock. Free climbing up to the beginning of the leftward traverse is possible. Traverse left on aid until you intersect a right angling seam. Climb the seam to two bolts which allow you to bypass the final blank section.
ProtectionThis route has now been done completely clean, but it is also a great traditional aid climb with the iron. There are three fixed angles in the route, which could probably be replaced with small TCUs if you happen to be the unfortunate soul that pulls one of those rusty things out. There is also a fixed aluminum head near the top of the seam. I think if you pulled this out you could replace this with a microstopper. Bring a standard rack with lots of tiny wires, small cams, slider nuts etc. Be prepared to get creative. A challenge for a future attempt would be to hook past the bolts near the top! You can scramble off the top or rap down. It is easiest to clean this route by jugging from the base on the lead rope since it is so overhung.
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