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Wings Of Steel [Suggest Change]
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Angel's Wings aka Devil's Wings, West Face
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Devil's Plaything, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gates Of Hell T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Wind Beneath the Devil's Wings T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wings Of Steel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft |
| FA: | Tony Bubb, Jerry Bargo, 10/6/07. |
| Page Views: | 616 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 6, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click herebouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cl… for the latest in raptor closures.
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click herebouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cl… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description [Suggest Change]
A great track from the Collide album, 'Chasing The Ghost.'
Start up a shallow, left-facing corner by stepping up and placing great medium stopper or cam, and an equally great fingerlock, then pull into the corner. Within a meter, the system is given to stiff laybacks with high feet and sections of jamming. After perhaps 60', the corner which has been hitherto characterized by laybacks is replaced by a system of equally well-protected flakes and cracks. Climb these to near a summit at about 100' up, then place a good directional and traverse hard right along flakes and ledges to reach the rap tree as for 'Wind Beneath The Devil's Wings' and belay/rap.
This is the best single pitch route on the West Face of the Devil's Wings.
Start up a shallow, left-facing corner by stepping up and placing great medium stopper or cam, and an equally great fingerlock, then pull into the corner. Within a meter, the system is given to stiff laybacks with high feet and sections of jamming. After perhaps 60', the corner which has been hitherto characterized by laybacks is replaced by a system of equally well-protected flakes and cracks. Climb these to near a summit at about 100' up, then place a good directional and traverse hard right along flakes and ledges to reach the rap tree as for 'Wind Beneath The Devil's Wings' and belay/rap.
This is the best single pitch route on the West Face of the Devil's Wings.
Location [Suggest Change]
Toward the upper end of the West Face (north), a shallow and distinctly yellow, right-facing corner starts at the ground with a slight overhang and a large hollow flake on the left side. This is perhaps 100' to 150' North of 'Wind Beneath The Devil's Wings'.
Protection [Suggest Change]
Gear from medium stoppers to 3" cams. While a 4" piece can be placed, but just a bit deeper in the same place, other gear can be had. So forgo the heavy stuff.
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