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Routes in Angel's Wings aka Devil's Wings, West Face

Devil's Plaything, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gates Of Hell T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Wind Beneath the Devil's Wings T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wings Of Steel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Tony Bubb, Jerry Bargo, 10/6/07.
Page Views: 628 total · 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 6, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details


A great track from the Collide album, 'Chasing The Ghost.'

Start up a shallow, left-facing corner by stepping up and placing great medium stopper or cam, and an equally great fingerlock, then pull into the corner. Within a meter, the system is given to stiff laybacks with high feet and sections of jamming. After perhaps 60', the corner which has been hitherto characterized by laybacks is replaced by a system of equally well-protected flakes and cracks. Climb these to near a summit at about 100' up, then place a good directional and traverse hard right along flakes and ledges to reach the rap tree as for 'Wind Beneath The Devil's Wings' and belay/rap.
This is the best single pitch route on the West Face of the Devil's Wings.


Toward the upper end of the West Face (north), a shallow and distinctly yellow, right-facing corner starts at the ground with a slight overhang and a large hollow flake on the left side. This is perhaps 100' to 150' North of 'Wind Beneath The Devil's Wings'.


Gear from medium stoppers to 3" cams. While a 4" piece can be placed, but just a bit deeper in the same place, other gear can be had. So forgo the heavy stuff.


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