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Y-Crack Simulator

5.9, Trad, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 66 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Entrance Corridor > Friction Slab > New Sub-Area 1
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Description

For those lacking a large rack of cams or those who are new to the Creek; this is a great place to start. Also, there is a really cool cave to the right of this route where you can actually walk back in the rock behind this climb. Bring you headlamp.

Location

Located between Friction Slab and Blue Gramma. Look for a small pull off east of the road. The route climbs the splitter up white-ish rock to the easily visible slings.

GPS: 38.022576 (lat), -109.539510 (lon)

Protection

Camalots-(1-2) #2, (2-3) #3, #3.5 optional.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

in the meat of it
[Hide Photo] in the meat of it
Starting up Y crack
[Hide Photo] Starting up Y crack
Splitter!
[Hide Photo] Splitter!
Action shot of the 'ol Y crack
[Hide Photo] Action shot of the 'ol Y crack
Pic of entire crack. Mostly #3. Could place some 2s down low.
[Hide Photo] Pic of entire crack. Mostly #3. Could place some 2s down low.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jeff Edge
Bend, OR
 
[Hide Comment] Behind this route is a cave and inside this cave is a deeper cave with two established routes in it (One is the 5.13 finger crack Teri-fied). If you go to check it out, be careful looking for the deeper cave. There is a low tunnel behind some blocks you can crawl through in the back. I didn't find this at first, and while it's possible to scramble down directly through the high gap you'll see, the rock is weak and loose and you might die when they break, like I almost did. Be careful back there! Nov 15, 2018
lethal weapon II
Pangea
 
[Hide Comment] This thing is pretty fun! I placed 4 #3's and nothing else. Felt very well protected. Leave the #2's in the car. This thing is pretty clean and a perfect warm-up/quick hit on your way to the real stuff. The offwidth at the top has been tough for a few people in my party but its really not bad. Mar 28, 2019
Michael Erickson
Redford, MI
  5.9
[Hide Comment] This is Y Crack Simulator

mountainproject.com/route/1… Nov 7, 2019
Cole Addison
Portsmouth, NH
[Hide Comment] Amazing route! Worth doing as a warm up on your way into the creek every time its a quick walk right off the road and the sun sets on it. It takes mostly #3s the whole way with a #4 here and there, I only got 1 #2 off the deck, dont need them on this route. You can use a #4 or #5 to protect the OW at the top nicely with a runner. Looks like a hanger was removed about 3/4 of the way up on the right and the bolt is still sticking out of the rock a bit watch your rope. May 29, 2020
Ted Pinson
Chicago, IL
 
[Hide Comment] This was a really fun climb. The bottom is nice if you have bigger hands, probably pretty desperate if you’re smaller. It’s really just 3s and 4s though...leave the 2s. The top was a little spooky on lead and might not be the greatest idea for a new leader...I’d recommend bringing a 5 if you’re new or sinking a 4 super deep and walking it up. It’s not actually a bad move but it’s very awkward and insecure and might spook people on an otherwise cruiser climb. Mar 30, 2021
[Hide Comment] Not bad, would be much improved by moving the anchor up or at least losing the long chains Jun 3, 2023