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Routes in South Summit Wall

Be Here Now T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Center Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Da Black and Gold T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Expanding Man T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Free Mexican Air Force T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Gardner's Delight , The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gold Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Escape, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Heart of Gold T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Inner Vision T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Thumb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
P-38 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Thumb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Taivallista T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 550 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Alexis Kelner, Dick Bell & Calvin Giddings in 1958 FFA Mark Ward & Randy Wright 1979
Page Views: 963 total, 8/month
Shared By: bsmoot on Oct 6, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This was the first route done up the main west side of Lone Peak.

-P1 Climb blocky steps for 150' to a to a belay below a steep section of the corner.
-P2 A clean hidden hand crack on the steep right wall provides passage here (5.9-).
-P3 & 4 Climb the corner using lots of stemming moves. We encountered some old pins here on our ascent(1983). The last pitch joins The Great Escape.

If you compare all of the routes south of south of Tom's Thumb this climb is one of better lines to do...fun climbing.

Location

Ascends the prominent corner about 75' left of The Great Escape.

Protection

Standard Free Rack

Photos

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Gee Kurt!::)) Franziska and I had such an adventure on this thing years ago I had to "one-star" you up. Yes, the flowers! Don't think we will ever forget the joy of attaining the top out on EM. The stemming alone is unique. Thanks for the memories! Jul 3, 2012
Kurt Howes
  5.9
Kurt Howes  
  5.9
of some historical value for it being one of, if not the first (?) lines on the west side of Lone Peak, it's worth looking at, but I suggest climbing it only if you've done most everything else in the cirque. Seems like we were the first party in 15 or 20 years to get on it; dull, uninspiring line for the sake of making a line. That said, there were about 45 feet of nice moves among the nearly 400 total feet. Bring a mask for the terrible smell of those flowers, a tool to remove debris hiding spots for pro, tape gloves for the sharp lichen filled cracks and a barrel of lowered expectations. But alas, I exaggerate. One star. Jul 2, 2012