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5.6, Sport, 50 ft,
Avg: 1.7 from 45 votes
Arizona > Central Arizona > *Phoenix Areas > Pinnacle Peak > Y-Crack Boulder
This climb was thin but good practice for beginners
Other side of the Y Crack route; Used this route to set up top rope for Y crack...Use obvious cracks in the top for placement of gear as backup
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Nicholas doing some fine rope management.
View of opposite boulders from atop Turtle Piss.
At the second bolt.
Ted S. leading past the first bolt
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Only 2 bolts so it might be a scary lead if you prefer more than one bolt per twenty five feet of cheese grater.
Nov 18, 2007
My son and I led Turtle yesterday. There are few hand and foot holds making this the hardest 5.6 we have ever climbed. The rock is very granular and it bites into climbing rubber but that means climbing on friction and slicing up finger tips, a psychological strain.
Mar 12, 2009
Very funny route name! :)
Sep 1, 2009
This was easy slab climbing. Great and varied holds. Should be no problem for any veteran granite climbers.
Oct 30, 2011
Hardest 5.6 I've ever climbed!
Feb 24, 2014
Only my third sport lead, but this is a stiff 5.6...
Sep 21, 2015
Mount Pleasant, UT
The bottom is pretty stiff, more like joshua tree 5.6, but after the second bolt it's a breeze. I'd suggest warming up the fingers to make it easier.
Oct 18, 2018
Seconding the warm fingers recommendation! Not being able to feel my fingers added a lot more spice to this already thin climb.
Mar 17, 2019
this is definitely harder than a 5.6. I started this route from the bottom but my partner had to start from the boulder to the left to even get off the ground. We are both 5.10 climbers. The hard part at the beginning is really short but don't underestimate it. If you are really looking for a 5.6 I suggest starting from the boulder on the left instead of the very bottom. I feel like under rating something with so few high-ball bolts is asking to cause problems for a new climber who is looking for something easy and safe to warm up on.
Dec 16, 2019