Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Turtle Piss

5.6, Sport, 50 ft,  Avg: 1.7 from 45 votes
FA: unknown
Arizona > Central Arizona > *Phoenix Areas > Pinnacle Peak > Y-Crack Boulder

Description

This climb was thin but good practice for beginners

Location

Other side of the Y Crack route; Used this route to set up top rope for Y crack...Use obvious cracks in the top for placement of gear as backup

Protection

None

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nicholas doing some fine rope management.
[Hide Photo] Nicholas doing some fine rope management.
turtle piss
[Hide Photo] turtle piss
View of opposite boulders from atop Turtle Piss.
[Hide Photo] View of opposite boulders from atop Turtle Piss.
Victory!
[Hide Photo] Victory!
Final moves
[Hide Photo] Final moves
At the second bolt.
[Hide Photo] At the second bolt.
Ted S. leading past the first bolt
[Hide Photo] Ted S. leading past the first bolt

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Pete Hickman
Tacoma, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Only 2 bolts so it might be a scary lead if you prefer more than one bolt per twenty five feet of cheese grater. Nov 18, 2007
[Hide Comment] My son and I led Turtle yesterday. There are few hand and foot holds making this the hardest 5.6 we have ever climbed. The rock is very granular and it bites into climbing rubber but that means climbing on friction and slicing up finger tips, a psychological strain. Mar 12, 2009
[Hide Comment] Very funny route name! :) Sep 1, 2009
Sagar Gondalia
Golden
  5.6
[Hide Comment] This was easy slab climbing. Great and varied holds. Should be no problem for any veteran granite climbers. Oct 30, 2011
KayLeann Leann
Tempe, AZ
[Hide Comment] Hardest 5.6 I've ever climbed! Feb 24, 2014
dahigdon
phoenix, Az
[Hide Comment] Only my third sport lead, but this is a stiff 5.6... Sep 21, 2015
Gregory Cooper
Mount Pleasant, UT
[Hide Comment] The bottom is pretty stiff, more like joshua tree 5.6, but after the second bolt it's a breeze. I'd suggest warming up the fingers to make it easier. Oct 18, 2018
Bharath Tata
Chandler, AZ
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Seconding the warm fingers recommendation! Not being able to feel my fingers added a lot more spice to this already thin climb. Mar 17, 2019
Riley Hughes
Springfield, MO
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] this is definitely harder than a 5.6. I started this route from the bottom but my partner had to start from the boulder to the left to even get off the ground. We are both 5.10 climbers. The hard part at the beginning is really short but don't underestimate it. If you are really looking for a 5.6 I suggest starting from the boulder on the left instead of the very bottom. I feel like under rating something with so few high-ball bolts is asking to cause problems for a new climber who is looking for something easy and safe to warm up on. Dec 16, 2019