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Routes in Devil's Kitchen

Bighorn (unknown) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boogie Down T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0
Caaarl Llama TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Devil Made Me Do It, The V1-2 5
Future Reference T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Last Taco T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mouthful of Sand T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Aid, 90 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,368 total · 11/month
Shared By: Alex Garhart on Oct 4, 2007
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Pitch 1: Climb sandy fingers and face for 15' and then tight hands in a left facing corner. Pass the offwidth to a couple of drilled angles and loose I-bolt.

Pitch 2: Move right off the belay and make 5.7 moves on soft rock to the top of the formation and clip a bolt. Walk right to the edge of the formation and either lower or down climb 6' of exposed class 4 to a small ledge. Reach across the chasm to the detached tower (great exposure) and clip the first pin of a six bolt ladder. Aid up the bolt ladder to a horizontal #1 Camalot placement above the last pin and grovel to two drilled angles. This is a very nice summit with great views and definitely worth the first 10' of mank on pitch 1.

Location

This is opposite from Future Reference inside Devil's Kitchen landform.

Protection

Pitch 1: Stoppers, (BD) (2)#0.75, #2, #4. QD if you want to clip the sketchy 1/4 inch bolt.
Pitch 2: 1 bolt, 6 fixed pitons and a #1 BD. 60 meter rope for rap.

Photos

Alex Garhart  
 
If anyone knows the FA info or the name of the tower, please post. Jun 24, 2009
Marc Breen  
 
Route climbed 5/4/11; used orange TCU, #0.75 x 2, #1, #2, and #3 Camalots. 1/4" bolt at top of first pitch is now hangerless but not needed. The second pitch I used 7 draws, #1 Camalot. The old manky ring pitons on the second pitch are a trip! One of them (4th one I think) was flexing and moving. But they are close enough that you could French free...I just used a double length sling attached to a daisy. For the second, we just climbed to the edge of the first tower and took the short swing to the plumb line. Nice! I would love to hear how the first ascent placed the initial ring piton on the reach over...that is a wide step! May 7, 2011
George Zack
Orting, WA
George Zack   Orting, WA
Has the taller tower moved since the FA? Looking at that step-across from below, holy crap that's gotta be at least 5 feet! Apr 23, 2016
@above.... that's because it is at least 5'. I'm 5'8"... it was a stretch. Awesome ride! Both anchors replaced 5/28/17. Blue cord top of 1 is new. Green means go at top of 2. Faded red is only there to cushion green on the old pins. May 28, 2017

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