Type: Trad, Aid, 90 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,450 total · 11/month
Shared By: Alex Garhart on Oct 4, 2007
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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6 Opinions

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Description

Pitch 1: Climb sandy fingers and face for 15' and then tight hands in a left facing corner. Pass the offwidth to a couple of drilled angles and loose I-bolt.

Pitch 2: Move right off the belay and make 5.7 moves on soft rock to the top of the formation and clip a bolt. Walk right to the edge of the formation and either lower or down climb 6' of exposed class 4 to a small ledge. Reach across the chasm to the detached tower (great exposure) and clip the first pin of a six bolt ladder. Aid up the bolt ladder to a horizontal #1 Camalot placement above the last pin and grovel to two drilled angles. This is a very nice summit with great views and definitely worth the first 10' of mank on pitch 1.

Location

This is opposite from Future Reference inside Devil's Kitchen landform.

Protection

Pitch 1: Stoppers, (BD) (2)#0.75, #2, #4. QD if you want to clip the sketchy 1/4 inch bolt.
Pitch 2: 1 bolt, 6 fixed pitons and a #1 BD. 60 meter rope for rap.

Photos

Alex Garhart
  5.9 A0
Alex Garhart  
  5.9 A0
If anyone knows the FA info or the name of the tower, please post. Jun 24, 2009
Marc Breen  
 
Route climbed 5/4/11; used orange TCU, #0.75 x 2, #1, #2, and #3 Camalots. 1/4" bolt at top of first pitch is now hangerless but not needed. The second pitch I used 7 draws, #1 Camalot. The old manky ring pitons on the second pitch are a trip! One of them (4th one I think) was flexing and moving. But they are close enough that you could French free...I just used a double length sling attached to a daisy. For the second, we just climbed to the edge of the first tower and took the short swing to the plumb line. Nice! I would love to hear how the first ascent placed the initial ring piton on the reach over...that is a wide step! May 7, 2011
George Zack
Orting, WA
George Zack   Orting, WA
Has the taller tower moved since the FA? Looking at that step-across from below, holy crap that's gotta be at least 5 feet! Apr 23, 2016
Nathan Ross
Lexington, KY
Nathan Ross   Lexington, KY
@above.... that's because it is at least 5'. I'm 5'8"... it was a stretch. Awesome ride! Both anchors replaced 5/28/17. Blue cord top of 1 is new. Green means go at top of 2. Faded red is only there to cushion green on the old pins. May 28, 2017