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Routes in Feudal Wall (Right Side)

Arizona Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Burning Man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
California Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Castles Burning T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dry Lake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dum Roodle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
El Rey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mikado, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Minion T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Noriega Does Panama S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Panama Canal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Panther Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Pet Sounds T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Pet or Meat T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Princess T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Return of General Noriega, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Socrates Sucks TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whispering Chickens S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bob Gaines, January 1988
Page Views: 648 total, 5/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 4, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route goes up the buttress to the right of the second pitch of "Dum Roodle", wandering past five bolts and four bulging overhangs.

Climb a right curving crack, under the first bulge, pass this on it's right side and continue to a bolt, climb up to the second bulge. Move left, then over the overhang and climb past two more bolts to the right side of the third bulge. Traverse left along a dike, beneath the overhang, then move over it and up under the final overhang, passing two more bolts (5.12a). Move right until possible to head up to the top.

This is the best I can describe the route from what I have gathered from guide books and looking at it. This route is way above my ability and I don't think that I know anyone who has done it.

Protection

Standard rack, draws, slings to minimize rope drag.

Photos

Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
It's a cool looking route and I would like to photograph someone climbing it. If anyone wants to do it for photos, contact me through this site or at blitzoproductions@yahoo.com. Oct 19, 2007