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Cocaine Corner

V5, Boulder, 15 ft (5 m),  Avg: 3.8 from 72 votes
FA: unknown
California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Yosemite Valle… > Camp 4 Boulders > Cocaine Corner Boulder
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Description

This technical arete/face is one of the all-time classics on the Camp 4 circuit. Slap, pinch, layaway, smear, highstep and edge your way up to an insecure crux involving a weight transfer or foot dyno just before the top. A very sequential cool weather problem that sees plenty of suitors, but few ascents considering the rating.

Location

Directly adjacent to the old paved trail that runs through the boulders above camp, across from the Wine Boulder. Downclimb the low angle slab left of Initial Friction.

Protection

There's a bad chopper block in the drop-zone that has claimed a few broken bones over the years. But, with sufficient pads (3-5) it's completely safe to bomb off the crux.

Videos

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Hiding from the sun. What a gorgeous line!
[Hide Photo] Hiding from the sun. What a gorgeous line!
Gary Reno, late nineties.
[Hide Photo] Gary Reno, late nineties.
Cocaine Corner
[Hide Photo] Cocaine Corner
Brian Holstein on Cocaine Corner.
[Hide Photo] Brian Holstein on Cocaine Corner.
Smearin' and slappin'.
[Hide Photo] Smearin' and slappin'.
The obvious line.
[Hide Photo] The obvious line.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Brad Gobright walked me through this one back in '07 when I was a V3 climber. We miss you, man. Nov 29, 2019