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Routes in Pogue's Cave Area

Blessed and Blissed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Buzz Lightyear S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Funk Shui S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Houkah S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jeremy Fisher S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Labour of Love S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Merlins Mantra S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Never Never Land S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Now and Zen S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ooey Gooey S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
POGy WOG S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Party Pogues S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pogue's Arete S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prima Donna S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tale of Jemima Puddleduck, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tweedle Dee S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tweedle Dum S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 70 total, 1/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Oct 2, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Thompson Canyon Details

Description

Start just right of the tiered roof that is Never Never land. Boulder up the first bolt on harder than it looks rock. Clip the first bolt and pull the crux on underclings or small pockets. Don't worry it get's easier from here. Continue up pulling a small overhang to a nice ledge. Continue up passing 4 more bolts on large holds to the anchor.

I had put off doing this route as it is one of three climbs that don't get any stars in the Enchanted Tower Guide. Guide warns about large loose blocks by the second bolt. While there are some large "features" here I didn't find them loose or unattached from the main rock. This may have cleaned up substantially over the past few years.

Slightly run-out between the 2nd and third bolt. Although it is easy here there is a nice ledge to hit and maybe the ground. Picture shows the distance between them right after i've clipped the third bolt.

Location

To the right of the giant overhung arete that is Never Never Land. Just left of Labour of Love.

Protection

6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Matt Price  
 
This climb is pretty fun, and worth doing (at least once). However, it is a little scary being about 25ft off the ground and wondering if you could deck if you somehow botched the clip. Not the greatest choice for bolt placement in my opinion. Nov 10, 2007