Type: Trad, Aid, 330 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: old guys
Page Views: 1,216 total · 9/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Sep 30, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Closed. Details

Description

p1 starts on ramp and climbs chimney (5.8, 90'). p2 traverses 35' (5.5) and then up (A.0, 10') to ancient bird nest (with egg shells and mice bones). p3, 1" crack leads to twin "seams to 1 1/2" " to belay (A.1, 110'). p4 climbs 1" crack to roof (very awkward A.1+) then more A.1+ and mixed free loose chimney moves to summit.

One hole (angle) was drilled to direct summit raps to NW side. Other belays are clean w/ fixed pins.

Location

NW face of tower, the analog of Primal Yawn. Raps (CRITICAL INFO) from summit, R1) 140' and one line end must be tied in as you are 10' in space. R2, 110' to bird nest, R3 140' to ground (you do not return to starting ramp)

Protection

Triple camming units smallest to 1 1/2, doubles to 4", one #5 & #6. Ball nuts (2 sets) very helpful. 2 LA's, 2 KB's, 1 ea. angle to 3/4"

Photos

toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
Too cool. Way top go! What an adventure! Bravo! And that little gumby fellow was probably glad to see anyone after all those years... Oct 1, 2007