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Routes in Central Reservation Climbs

Bentwood Spire (NE Face) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chinle Spire (N. Face) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4
Dead Horse Spire T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A3
Dead Horse/Cow Crags T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Edna Mode (Dead Horse Spire) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1+
Elephant Butte (Elephant Head Route) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
King Louie Spire (Monkey Face) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2+
Los Gigantos Butte III (Fiend without a Face) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3
Los Gigantos II (W.Face) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A3+
Lucky Strike Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Many Farms Pinnacle (So. Face) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Pope (Primal Yawn ), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3+
Pope (Supreme Being) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1+ PG13
Pratilus Spire (E. Face) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Rattlesnake Arch (Buzzworm) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rock Point Spire, N. Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Round Rock (S E Side) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smith Spire West Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4
Standing Rock (Rock Point) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tsaile Peak (So. Face) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whale, NE Arete, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Window Rock III (Crag) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Aid, 330 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: old guys
Page Views: 1,116 total, 9/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Sep 30, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Closed. Details

Description

p1 starts on ramp and climbs chimney (5.8, 90'). p2 traverses 35' (5.5) and then up (A.0, 10') to ancient bird nest (with egg shells and mice bones). p3, 1" crack leads to twin "seams to 1 1/2" " to belay (A.1, 110'). p4 climbs 1" crack to roof (very awkward A.1+) then more A.1+ and mixed free loose chimney moves to summit.

One hole (angle) was drilled to direct summit raps to NW side. Other belays are clean w/ fixed pins.

Location

NW face of tower, the analog of Primal Yawn. Raps (CRITICAL INFO) from summit, R1) 140' and one line end must be tied in as you are 10' in space. R2, 110' to bird nest, R3 140' to ground (you do not return to starting ramp)

Protection

Triple camming units smallest to 1 1/2, doubles to 4", one #5 & #6. Ball nuts (2 sets) very helpful. 2 LA's, 2 KB's, 1 ea. angle to 3/4"

Photos

toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
Too cool. Way top go! What an adventure! Bravo! And that little gumby fellow was probably glad to see anyone after all those years... Oct 1, 2007