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Routes in Between Shark's Fin Wall & Bridge Wall North (Practice Rock)

Arrowhead V8 7B
Frictionite S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mists of Mordor S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Staff V3 6A
Trash Crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 542 total, 4/month
Shared By: Travis R. Thompson on Sep 30, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Eds. This is a combination of two descriptions. The second one is deleted to reduce redundancy in the database.

There is a "half" of a crack between Mists of Mordor and The Practice Wall. Climb up the crack for about 12-15 feet and there is a place for a descent stopper (one of the better I got). From here, I went right on to the face I thought it was easier than continuing up the crack proper. Either way this is no-man's land as there is nowhere else to get any gear until you are about 35 feet off the ground and looking at a certain ground-fall. (No Bull-Shit!)
This is where it got interesting I had to put in a completely (all feel) blind stopper while standing in one of the harder spots of the route (probably just nerves). From here, continue straight up the crack where you can actually get a couple decent pieces in before the anchor. I left two stoppers for an anchor, but you might want to bring some webbing to equalize them better.

Per Tymothe Meskel: I don't really know what to say about this route. It sucks, it dangerous, the gear sucks, and the entire time Buzz was on the route I thought he was going to deck out.

That being said, sometimes partners should listen to each other.

Your first piece good piece is about 15 feet up. After that, good luck.

PS: If someone anchors this, can I have my nuts and sling back?

Location

Down from Half Pipe, up from the Practice Wall. It's the same pull out as for Shark's Fin Wall.

Protection

Nothing but Stoppers, a lot of them were bigger, but one was a #4 turned sideways, as were the rest because the placements were so shallow.

Per Tymothe Meskel: Trad: mostly nuts with a number one cam.

Photos

Travis R. Thompson
Parachute (Rifle), CO
 
Travis R. Thompson   Parachute (Rifle), CO
 
This is the same as "Trash Crack" I guess I forgot to tell Tim I posted it, anyways I was looking a little closer at the picture and I don't know that you would actually hit the ground, but it would be close. Oct 11, 2007
Travis R. Thompson
Parachute (Rifle), CO
 
Travis R. Thompson   Parachute (Rifle), CO
 
I was looking at it and was thinking that you might not actually hit the ground if you fell from your second piece, but you would be really close and I wouldn't recommend trying it and finding out. Oct 11, 2007
Travis R. Thompson
Parachute (Rifle), CO
 
Travis R. Thompson   Parachute (Rifle), CO
 
I wouldn't even get on this thing unless you have a really strong head about you and feel really good with the grade.

P.S.- Yes I had recently read the article "Superchoss" in Climbing Magazine. Sep 30, 2007