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Trash Crack
5.8- YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 14 ZA VS 4c British PG13
Avg: 0 from 1
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Routes in Between Shark's Fin Wall & Bridge Wall North (Practice Rock)
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Arrowhead V8 7B |
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Beep Beep Sheep S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Frictionite S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mists of Mordor S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Staff V3 6A |
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Trash Crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,053 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Travis R. Thompson on Sep 30, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.?
Details
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
Eds. This is a combination of two descriptions. The second one is deleted to reduce redundancy in the database.
There is a "half" of a crack between Mists of Mordor and The Practice Wall. Climb up the crack for about 12-15 feet and there is a place for a descent stopper (one of the better I got). From here, I went right on to the face I thought it was easier than continuing up the crack proper. Either way this is no-man's land as there is nowhere else to get any gear until you are about 35 feet off the ground and looking at a certain ground-fall. (No Bull-Shit!)
This is where it got interesting I had to put in a completely (all feel) blind stopper while standing in one of the harder spots of the route (probably just nerves). From here, continue straight up the crack where you can actually get a couple decent pieces in before the anchor. I left two stoppers for an anchor, but you might want to bring some webbing to equalize them better.
Per Tymothe Meskel: I don't really know what to say about this route. It sucks, it dangerous, the gear sucks, and the entire time Buzz was on the route I thought he was going to deck out.
That being said, sometimes partners should listen to each other.
Your first piece good piece is about 15 feet up. After that, good luck.
PS: If someone anchors this, can I have my nuts and sling back?
There is a "half" of a crack between Mists of Mordor and The Practice Wall. Climb up the crack for about 12-15 feet and there is a place for a descent stopper (one of the better I got). From here, I went right on to the face I thought it was easier than continuing up the crack proper. Either way this is no-man's land as there is nowhere else to get any gear until you are about 35 feet off the ground and looking at a certain ground-fall. (No Bull-Shit!)
This is where it got interesting I had to put in a completely (all feel) blind stopper while standing in one of the harder spots of the route (probably just nerves). From here, continue straight up the crack where you can actually get a couple decent pieces in before the anchor. I left two stoppers for an anchor, but you might want to bring some webbing to equalize them better.
Per Tymothe Meskel: I don't really know what to say about this route. It sucks, it dangerous, the gear sucks, and the entire time Buzz was on the route I thought he was going to deck out.
That being said, sometimes partners should listen to each other.
Your first piece good piece is about 15 feet up. After that, good luck.
PS: If someone anchors this, can I have my nuts and sling back?
Location
Down from Half Pipe, up from the Practice Wall. It's the same pull out as for Shark's Fin Wall.
Protection
Nothing but Stoppers, a lot of them were bigger, but one was a #4 turned sideways, as were the rest because the placements were so shallow.
Per Tymothe Meskel: Trad: mostly nuts with a number one cam.
Per Tymothe Meskel: Trad: mostly nuts with a number one cam.
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