Avg: 0 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft (18 m)|
|Page Views:||892 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||Travis R. Thompson on Sep 30, 2007|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
There is a "half" of a crack between Mists of Mordor and The Practice Wall. Climb up the crack for about 12-15 feet and there is a place for a descent stopper (one of the better I got). From here, I went right on to the face I thought it was easier than continuing up the crack proper. Either way this is no-man's land as there is nowhere else to get any gear until you are about 35 feet off the ground and looking at a certain ground-fall. (No Bull-Shit!)
This is where it got interesting I had to put in a completely (all feel) blind stopper while standing in one of the harder spots of the route (probably just nerves). From here, continue straight up the crack where you can actually get a couple decent pieces in before the anchor. I left two stoppers for an anchor, but you might want to bring some webbing to equalize them better.
Per Tymothe Meskel: I don't really know what to say about this route. It sucks, it dangerous, the gear sucks, and the entire time Buzz was on the route I thought he was going to deck out.
That being said, sometimes partners should listen to each other.
Your first piece good piece is about 15 feet up. After that, good luck.
PS: If someone anchors this, can I have my nuts and sling back?
Per Tymothe Meskel: Trad: mostly nuts with a number one cam.