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Routes in Shadowfax

Dark Territory T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Thirteen Words for Choss. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Under Seige T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
White Stallion, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: T. Bubb, J.Haas, 9/28/07. Redpoint J. Hass, 11/07
Page Views: 198 total, 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 29, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a tough route due to its sustained and heads-up nature. With some work, it could become a great route to aspire to- with continuous 5.10 (or harder) climbing for a majority of its length.

This route delivered a merciless beating in the initial ground-up attempts of both members of the FA party - loose flakes, broken holds, questionable gear, loose flakes in the cracks... but is mostly clean now. I resorted to aid after the breaking off a hold and taking a second fall on my lead attempt (having whipped from a sharp crux jam previously, before removing loose flakes from it).

The name was chosen because as with the climb (see Cubicle Crag), in the movie world, this was also the title of the sequel to "Under Siege". Similar difficulties were encountered in ground-up lead attempts by 2 now very tired climbers.

Beware that this route may still have some delicate flakes and gear. We do intend to go clean it up more some time....

Note: 11/11/07 redpoint by Jason Haas. The route is cleaned now.

Location

Approach the South Face of the upper (West) spire of Shadowfax from the North End, going up and around the backside.
On this South Face, near its eastern end, there is a striking and continuous fingercrack ascending from the ground to a good ledge near the top. This is Dark Territory.

Protection

A set of nuts and cams to 3" with triples in the fingers to thin fingers sizes. I did NOT have that rack. Placing active tricams on that route, on lead... not so fun.

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