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Routes in Creekside

Creekside Cruise T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Curtain Call T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Liquid Therapy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Local Hero T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Los Pinos (The Pines) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Spirit on the Water T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Bob D, Ron Olsen & Ken Cangi, 9/26/07
Page Views: 160 total, 1/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Sep 29, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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11 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

The crux is the opening moves getting into the corner. Great route with good gear and continuous climbing to the anchor.

Start about 10' left of Spirit on the Water at a water-polished bulge. Climb past the bulge (crux) into a corner. Clip a bolt and climb the corner up to a face with flared cracks. Climb past a second bolt to an overhang. Angle left under the overhang to a stance at its left edge. Move back right and continue straight up to the anchor. Lower back to the start.

Variation: the crux bulge at the start can be avoided by starting up Spirit on the Water, clipping the first bolt on that route, and then traversing left to the corner and the first bolt on Liquid Therapy. Done this way, the route is 5.8.

Location

By the creek...10 feet left of Spirit on the Water.

Eds. the beta photos have been deleted by their submitter.

This route is accessible only when the creek water level is low (late summer to mid-spring).

Protection

Doubles on Aliens up to red...then cams to hand size. 2 bolts. 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks.

Photos

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Mitchell Hall
  5.9+
Mitchell Hall  
  5.9+
Just the first couple moves are hard. All the cracks the rest of the way are full of dirt but not hard. We scrambled over to showtimes arete which was fun but had a bunch of dangerous looking rocks. Sep 23, 2016
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10-
Even though the bottom may be out of the water & be belayed from a river rock at the base, the creek-spray can make it quite slick for the opening moves. Jul 28, 2014
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.10b
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.10b
Seems like a 1 move wonder to me. V1 boulder problem is protected by a large, blue, Metolius cam. Enjoy. May 17, 2008
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.9+
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.9+
This route turned out to be more interesting than it looks. Compared to routes like Mists of Avalon 10a, BC, and Bolting For Glory 10a, Eldo, I would call this one 5.9ish. I wouldn't think twice about recommending it to a 5.9 leader with good gear skills. Sep 30, 2007