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Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder)
5.11,
Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 3.5 from 13
votes
FA: unknown
New Mexico
> Los Alamos & Wh…
> White Rock
> Old New Place
Description
Rattlesnake Crack is one of the very best White Rock cracks, rated from 11a to 11c in different sources.
The crux is protected by small gear, which makes it a little scary, but good solid gear can be found before committing to it.
Head up to the undercling flake. Place pro underneath the flake and traverse left and crank through the insecure crux to a sharp flake to shake out on. From here, the rest of the climb is 5.10. Climb up to a triangular roof, pass this on the left, and lieback up the steep finger crack to a stance on the prow. Then mostly fingers with face pockets & small edges to the top.
A direct start in a seam 10' left of the undercling is 5.12, with not much for pro, if any.
Location
Climb is obvious from a wonderful big flat rock at its base. You'll see the clean face with the left-trending undercling traverse. This is the next climb to the right of
S Crack, the obvious S-shaped crack.
Protection
Nuts: 1 set, including RPs
Cams: 1 ea. from TCUs to #2 camalot, with doubles of #0.75 camalot and #0.5 camalot recommended.
2-bolt anchor.
It's not a great route for toproping, because falls at the crux leave the climber dangling and unable to reestablish on the rock.
![Good jams above the smeary crux of the route. June 2010.]()
[Hide Photo] Good jams above the smeary crux of the route. June 2010.
![J.O. topping out on Rattlesnake Crack.]()
[Hide Photo] J.O. topping out on Rattlesnake Crack.
![Johnny O. working up Snake Flake past the crux.]()
[Hide Photo] Johnny O. working up Snake Flake past the crux.
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Bozeman, MT
One more thing: while it's true that when toproping this route it is difficult/impossible to get back on at the crux, one just needs to keep swinging and lower a couple feet to the large undercling. Granted, this doesn't allow for a complete hang-dog ascent because to move up you have to pull the moves - but that's why you're on it, right? Jun 6, 2008
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