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Routes in Southwest Face

Galatic Interlude T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Shadowy Men From A Shadowy Planet S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Space Between Your Ears T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squash Pockets T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Brad Singer, Mike Rigney 8/95
Page Views: 76 total · 1/month
Shared By: C Miller on Sep 28, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Located in the center of the southwest face with Squash Pockets (5.11a) on the left and Galactic Interlude (5.10d) on the right.

Scramble to the top of a small block at the base, preclip the 1st bolt and start climbing up (5.10+) or climb back down and do the "direct start" which begins from ground level just to the left (5.11a). Continue up the face above passing several small roofs/overlaps to gain a stance below the tightly bolted crux section at the top.

Although somewhat continuous in nature the climbing is never strenous and affords numerous rest with the actual crux being a single, well-protected slab move requiring good balance and precise footwork. Perhaps the best route at the crag (with a long name).

Protection

8 bolts, chain anchors

Photos

This was the first FA Brad and I put up together with the bolts being put in top down. After the first bolt we could not find stances in the next section to drill from. The holds were pretty positive side pulls but would not hold a hook. We had been having some adventures recently with hooks popping and holds breaking and I think Brad was the first to chip a tooth. We knew this would be a pretty good route so we rapped and bolted. We were right, it was a good route, but I felt pretty bad about the whole rap bolting thing and suggested the name. 7 days ago

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