Type: Sport
FA: M Sprague 10/97
Page Views: 7,579 total · 48/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 27, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This is a classic wandering line up the weakness in the left side of the cliff. Due to its positioning and line of travel after climbing 20 feet you are way in to the exposed zone and it just gets better as you go.

From a decent stance clip the first bolt (not fixed at the moment) an inconsequential pull gets you clipped in to a fixed permadraw (you may choose to back-clean your own first draw at this point). Start up the nice steep wall playing find-the-jugs. Move right around a corner awkwardly to a stance (harder for shorties). At this point you want to travers right under a steep wall and as you head right and the ground below falls away you feel way exposed. This traverse is scrunchy and yes harder for tall people (evening the score of difficulty for the route). At the end of the traverse you can milk an amazing airy rest stance before entering the money section of the climb, steep hauling on fantasy jugs that just don't end if you choose the traditional finish traversing back left following the weakness to the anchors. Or at a slightly harder grade and more exposure try the Oh My! finish (5.11b/c). Either way you finish it this is such an enjoyable climb. There are currently fixed draws all the way so there's no good reason not to take a spin on it.

Location

Start at a 2 bolt anchor just down from the orangahang belay bolt.

Protection

12 bolts to anchor. 60m rope.

Photos