Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Chocolate Wall

Bittersweet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Calm S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cookies and Cream S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Death by Chocolate S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport
FA: Jack Marshall
Page Views: 3,280 total, 27/month
Shared By: Lizzy Trower on Sep 26, 2007 with updates
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


45 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Grotto and Lookout closed Details

Description

After pulling the initial roof via a balance-y move, continue sustained climbing on crimpy holds. The redpoint crux is surviving the pump to the top. The bolts are somewhat well-spaced for the typical Echo Cliff route.

Location

The rightmost bolt line on the Chocolate Wall. Start by pulling the obvious initial roof. Rap off chain anchor.

Protection

10 bolts, chain anchors

Photos

Dustin Stephens
  5.11
Dustin Stephens  
  5.11
Not really a 10 anymore, and holds are still shedding. Stick clip the first bolt. Nov 25, 2016
ascher
Los Angeles, CA
 
ascher   Los Angeles, CA
 
This felt hard for a 10, particularly the bouldery start. It took my partner and I both a few tries to make it over the roof, but the fall on the first bolt is relatively safe at least. Very fun and worth going back to do clean. Nov 17, 2016
Climbed this thing a few days ago. A great route, sustained and pumpy with fun moves, definitely pretty hard for the grade. But wow, make sure your belayer is wearing a helmet, it is LOOSE! I watched multiple holds flex under my weight. Jul 11, 2016
Caliza
  5.11a
Caliza  
  5.11a
Stick clip highly recommended. Hard start equals 11a. Caffine is easier. Feb 15, 2016
Phil Esra
  5.11a
Phil Esra  
  5.11a
A bit stout/sustained for Echo 10d. I'm going to call it 11a. Apr 14, 2014
Will Cornell
  5.11a
Will Cornell  
  5.11a
This route is PUMPY. The first few moves are boulder-y, but after you make that second clip you're good. Feb 24, 2014
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Bobby Bensman claims there's no shame in using a stick clip. And she was once ranked 3rd among US women climbers behind Lynn Hill and Robyn Erbesfield. Lots of folks at Echo Cliffs (and Riverside Quarry & Smith Rock) carry them. Just ask someone if you don't have one. Jan 25, 2013
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  5.10d
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
  5.10d
Great positioning. I thought the roof crux was pretty spooky. If that clipping jug goes while pulling up rope (and it WILL some day), the ground is going to feel pretty hard. Jan 13, 2013
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Lizzy.....10 bolts? Are you including the anchor in your count? Should be 8 bolts. Could you also include the length of the route in the description? Nov 4, 2012