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Routes in (n) Snake Rock

A Desperate Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cling On T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Don't Tread On Me S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Don't tread on me finish S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hemp Liberation S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Iguanas on Elm Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lords of Karma S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Made in the Shade S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Notice to Appear S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Reptile T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Split Image S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Jeff Thomas, Doug Phillips, Greg Phillips, 1974
Page Views: 886 total · 7/month
Shared By: JohnK on Sep 26, 2007
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

Cling On is a three pitch route but most parties only climb the first pitch (5.8). The crux of the first pitch is making the first few moves to the obvious handholds in the huecos. Pitch two climbs up (5.9) and then out right on a traverse (5.5)to the first belay of The Snake. Pitch three (5.9) ascends the upper pitch of The Snake.

Location

The left-facing book about 70 feet north of Snake Rock in an alcove.

Protection

Gear to 4 inches if climbing entire route. Gear to 2 inches if only climbing first pitch.

Photos

Carl Schaefer
Boulder, CO
Carl Schaefer   Boulder, CO
at 5.8 the 1st pitch feels like a sandbag, with tiring stances below the huecos. The 1st pitch rap anchors are on the ledge just above the huecos, so the 1st pitch is short. Should be in the shade most of the time, except maybe late in the day during the summer. Jul 13, 2017
Obi
Portland, OR
  5.9
Obi   Portland, OR
  5.9
1st pitch is extremely burly for a "5.8" and pumpy - not a route recommended for the novice leader. Apr 27, 2015
berl
Seattle
berl   Seattle
not sure what you would do with only 2" gear once you get to the pockety stuff... you either have to get (larger) gear in behind the flake or run it out to the bolted anchor on top of the ledge. Oct 30, 2009
rpc
 
rpc  
 
"Pitch two climbs up (5.9) "

you might want to mention that there's a choice of 3 cracks (shitty wide one, good wide one, and good tight hands one) up there & all involve tiptoeing around a teetering block. Sep 27, 2007