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Routes in Roadside Wall

Cruise Control T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
End of the Road T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ethiopia T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
GPS Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jawbone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nifty Nine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ramp, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rose, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sandtrap T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Special Olympics T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Rob Robinson, Peter Henley - 1980
Page Views: 3,425 total, 28/month
Shared By: bbrock on Sep 26, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

Beautiful right facing corner with a splitter layback crack. The feet are small and slippery, but the gear is always there. Under the roof traverse right to the anchors. Under the anchors are two excellent climbs (10d $ 11c). These climbs have very sparse gear and make excellent topropes.

Location

Starts about 15' right of Pink Flamingos; shares the start with Ethiopia.

Protection

Up to 1 inch

Photos

Chad N
Three Rivers, CA
 
Chad N   Three Rivers, CA
 
^ Wow, 'soft 5.9' seems like a stretch. That's solid 10a for anybody, I would think. Anything to compare it to? And you probably had 'finger locks on a lieback' and not 'ringlocks'. Ringlocks are usually done on a straight in finger crack (vertical wall, not corner) where a ring shape is made with the the thumb and 1st finger, sometimes 2nd too. Mar 22, 2015
eli poss
Durango, Co
  5.10a
eli poss   Durango, Co
  5.10a
would be 4 stars but the second pitch could really use some cleaning with a wire brush and some ring anchors. amazing first pitch, though. if you have smaller hands like i do it will feel like a soft 5.9. i got bomber hand jams and ringlocks almost the whole way. Mar 21, 2015
changed email
Chattanooga,TN
changed email   Chattanooga,TN
the thank god hold consisting of that block at the "roof" is no more. possibly increasing the grade but in my & my partners opinion brings it up par with 10a. Nov 8, 2008