Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 900 total · 7/month
Shared By: C Miller on Sep 26, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

Start from a two finger pin scar and a flared three finger tips sidepull with horrible, glassy feet and crank a looong reach to a better jam; once past the crux the climbing eases to about 5.9 in difficulty. Although listed as a toprope in various guidebooks, it could easily be led or even soloed as the difficulties are past once you're about 15' off the ground.

Orignally an aid climb using pins (one of the reasons it goes free) it still provides fun, clean aid practice if so desired.

The two bolts on top are located a ways down the face and require some exposed (but easy) friction to access.

Protection

TR from 2 bolts (3/8")

Photos

Eric Odenthal
Moab, UT
  5.12
Eric Odenthal   Moab, UT
  5.12
not sure it's 5.9 after the sinker jug in the middle... keep it together. Jan 24, 2010
nathanael
Riverside, CA
 
nathanael   Riverside, CA
 
The bottom of this is really heinous with all the feet painted over in layers of graffiti and cover-up paint. For me not doable. The rest is pretty sweet, steep lieback moves past a couple pin scars up to the jug, then desperate smearing to get over the bulge. Even without the start it feels like Woodson 11c. 6 days ago