PRINT: Rock Climb Kathleen Finds An Edge, Smith Rock

Kathleen Finds An Edge

5.7, Sport,

Avg: 2.1 from 97 votes
FA: Ryan Lawson
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (l) Christian B… > Christian Brothers -…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

Fun, airy route that climbs the arete on the southern edge of The Priest. The crux is a well protected step from a ledge not quite half way up that has minimal footholds. Then romp up and to the right to the anchors and great views of the Cascade Mountains to the west and the Crooked River to the east.

Location

Up hill towards Asterisk Pass from Dancer / Jete. Requires a short scramble from the trail to reach the base of the climb.

Protection

Quickdraws. Two bolt anchor (shared with That First Step). Can be climbed with a 50 meter rope with a rap to the start of That First Step and then a downclimb from the First Step block. To rap all the way back to the start of Catherine it requires a 60 meter rope.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Emma cruising

To the top, where the earth meets the sky

Joe heading up

View from afar. Trevor is at the anchors to Catherine. Joe is at the 60M rappel/belay stance for That First Step

Mark D. leading just below the crux of Catherine Finds An Edge.

Kathleen follows the boltline along the edge, "First Step," is the closer boltline. Fun romps way up on the edge of the pass.

side view

Best moderate in Smith?

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Sergey Rurik
New York, NY

5.7

Pretty exposed, though not a hard route. Sep 3, 2014

David Shirley
Portland

Climbing this route is rewarding for the view alone. Good, easy route for beginners looking for some exposure. great photo op if you have some one taking photos from asterisk pass.

EDIT: climbed this again and while I enjoyed the lack of bolts (6-total) - falling between some of these would not be pretty. would recommend to those of you who enjoy getting scared. easy climb Sep 28, 2015

Gail Blauer
Gardiner, NY

Fun route with some spaced bolts. Not sure I would recommend to the budding 5.7 leader. Apr 15, 2017

Nick Drake
Kent, WA

Note the anchor on this route does not have biners/mussy hooks for lowering, as route traverses significantly cleaning on rappel is not recommended. Plan on having a follower clean. Apr 18, 2017

Hot Smith Guy
Columbia river gorge

Really fun route. Due to bolt spacing it may be a little exciting for new lead climbers. Cleaning is difficult. Would recommend lowering and knowing what trollying is before doing it. Jun 23, 2019

Truman Swartzfager
Monmouth

Exposed and run out. Not ideal for a beginner leader but the view is worth the minor risk;) Mar 30, 2021

Leon Wright
Portland, OR

Anchors at the top have no mussy hooks, just very worn steel Quicklinks and are pretty far to the right. I assume they are positioned for the route directly to the right of this (That First Step). Top roping can be done by leaving some directionals however cleaning and lowering off is fairly challenging. Lowering down to the right of the route and walking back up and around to the base is probably the simplest way.
Steel quick links at the anchor should be replaced as they are quite worn. Feb 26, 2024