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Blow Hole
5.10c/d,
Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 3 from 25
votes
FA: unknown, 1970s
New Mexico
> Los Alamos & Wh…
> White Rock
> Playground
Description
Probably the longest climb at the Playground, with a couple good cruxes. Blow Hole is one of the only climbs at the Playground that doesn't have the big ledge near the top of the cliff interrupting it.
The immediate first crux is the first 15' of finger crack with poor feet; this spits off many suitors. Place a good small cam (#0.3 camalot or equivalent) to keep from decking on the rocks. If going direct is too hard, try to sneak past this by climbing in from the left or right. In any case, once you reach the namesake "Blowhole"-- a unique pocket just left of the crack-- you'll start the second crux, where you'll work up the overhanging finger crack and mantle onto a mostly sloping big ledge to the left. The rest of the climb follows easier cracks with some rubble, but it's no big deal.
Falls near the start can be particularly nasty, and at least one accident has occurred here (have your belayer spot you to keep you off the rocks). Falls at the upper crux are clean and airy but on solid gear.
Location
This climb is located at the far right of the Playground, at the rightmost place with sandy ground (before the boulder gully begins).
Protection
1 set wired nuts, 1 set cams up to #2 camalot.
If you haven't set it in advance, save #1, #2, or #3 camalots for the anchor.
[Hide Photo] Pulling through the crux of Blow Hole and Brian Quiter starting up the "Unnamed (crack left of Blow Hole)." July 29, 2008.
Austin, TX
There is actually quite a bit of suspect rock above the crux for maybe the next 15' or so, then the rock improves again up higher. Mar 1, 2009