Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Mark Van Horn
Page Views: 1,583 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Sep 24, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

This is a super cool, moderate, arete climb at the Gallagher Buttress area. It has nice pockets between thinner make-you-think moves with a position-sensitive crux past the small roof on the arete's left side.

The first bolt is very high, because the rock down low is suspect and doesn't appear to offer any good bolt placements. Using the wall to the left for your feet to reach the first bolt is a secure way to get it, but the arete moves to the first bolt are good too if you're OK with run-out off the deck.

Location

Follow the trail up to the Gallagher Buttress. This route is on the obvious, featured prow just left of the huge, undercut roof first encountered when you reach the Gallagher Buttress area.

Protection

6 bolts to cold shuts with no chains.

Photos