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Routes in The North End

Aggro Monk S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Black Uhuru S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blo Jo Jono S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Boulder Hypocricy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Churning in the Cheese S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Darrylect of Dialect, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Form, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Function, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Houses of the Holy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
I Like It Black S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
King Coral S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
La Primera Vez S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Laser Gods S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lifus's Farm Tools, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Makadon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mono Jono S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New and Unknown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nyorgai S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Quiet Time S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stairway to Heaven S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Swanktofy Yourself S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Thing 1, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thing 2, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Under the Hand S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Under the Milky Way S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up Your Booty Crack S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Mark Van Horn
Page Views: 1,293 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Sep 24, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a super cool, moderate, arete climb at the Gallagher Buttress area. It has nice pockets between thinner make-you-think moves with a position-sensitive crux past the small roof on the arete's left side.

The first bolt is very high, because the rock down low is suspect and doesn't appear to offer any good bolt placements. Using the wall to the left for your feet to reach the first bolt is a secure way to get it, but the arete moves to the first bolt are good too if you're OK with run-out off the deck.

Location

Follow the trail up to the Gallagher Buttress. This route is on the obvious, featured prow just left of the huge, undercut roof first encountered when you reach the Gallagher Buttress area.

Protection

6 bolts to cold shuts with no chains.

Photos

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
 
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
 
Arete routes are awesome and this is no exception. Staying on the arete proper makes for impressive position on this beauty. It's a tad run-out from the last bolt to the anchors, but the rock is sharper and quite secure. To the anchors I stayed on the arete and then reached left to clip em. Others move onto the face after the last bolt and went straight up. Both options go at the same grade. (But stay on the arete for maximum enjoyment.) Sep 25, 2007
slim

  5.10b
slim    
  5.10b
Good route, but I thought the runout at the top kind of detracted from it. My partner and I both thought the crux was just below the anchor. Apr 9, 2013
Kirk Miller
Golden, CO
 
Kirk Miller   Golden, CO
 
It's always fun to encounter the crux with the last bolt all but out of sight below....
Good example of a contrived runout detracting from an otherwise stellar climb. Apr 9, 2013
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
If you move left at the last bolt, it is very straightforward, and it doesn't feel runout or cruxy. May 11, 2014
Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
  5.10b
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
  5.10b
Amazing arete climbing! One of the best .10s at Shelf in my opinion. Heads up - the second bolt hanger has been mangled by a rock and is bent over pretty good. If anyone is planning on doing this route, maybe bring a hanger & wrench to replace it. Threads were rusted, so it could be a PITA & need a new bolt installed. Aug 11, 2014

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