Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Danger Mouse

5.11-, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 8 votes
FA: Jeff Giddings? June 1990
New Mexico > Taos Area > Tres Piedras > Beastie Alley
Warning Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Seasonal Raptor Nesting. DetailsDrop down

Description

The hardest easiest-looking climb I've ever seen. Originally rated 10d, now listed at 11a in the books, and harder if you're short.

The first bolt is clipped with a reachy undercling (stickclip or find a tall friend if <5'9"). Step right of this bolt, grab the "juggy" crystals and move up to the horizontal crack using footholds under the low overlap that you can't see (1st crux). If you're too short, this move might not be protected because you might not be able to reach the bolt. Traverse left 10' along the horizontal overlap. Up past the rest of the bolts with a distinct high-step/mantle move (crux), with a bolt at your nose for the crux move. After the last bolt, run it out on 5.6 to the anchor (shared with Thunder Toad).

Danger Mouse is the greatest secret agent in the world, and would certainly climb this with no difficulty.

This is an excellent climb for a person looking to try their first 5.10+/11- at TP. The bolts are right where you want them.

Location

The leftmost of two bolted climbs on the west-facing slab just left of Beastie Alley.

Protection

3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor (shared with Thunder Toad). Don't bring other gear.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brian Quiter
Oakland, CA
[Hide Comment] Mark failed to mention about the first crux:

6' people might forget that its also reachy!! I'm 5'8" and was an inch too short to reach the 'thin' holds without jumping. At least I could clip the first bolt (barely). Jul 26, 2008
Jeb Wennrich
Bethlehem, NH
  5.11b PG13
[Hide Comment] Primo climb deserving of more attention, felt safer than thunder toad Jan 28, 2025